Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
A steady wind carried us gently on from Mykoni, and we seemed to enter a
large lake: on one side were the mountains of Anatolia; on the other,
the left, the Isle of Scio, richly cultivated and populous. The whole
coast is covered with the so-called mastic villages. The mastic plant,
which is cultivated mainly on the east side--the side we were looking
at--of the island, is a high evergreen. It is gathered much as resin is
from firs, and the annual crop is about 6,000 okes, all of which goes to
Constantinople. Besides mastic, the island produces a vast quantity of
fruit, which also goes to the capital. The population is very large,
almost entirely Greek. Compared to the wretched Cretans, they are very
independent, both men and women. The latter paint extravagantly and wear
an ugly costume; but I must say that on a _festa_, such as the day after
our arrival, being the 13th of January and New Year's Day in Greece, the
crowds of them dressed in their best, sitting on either side of the
street, looked as brilliant as banks of flowers.
Before leaving we went to see the chief curiosity of the island--viz.
Homer's School. It lies northwards, along the shore, about an hour's
ride. You arrive first at a fall of a small stream into the sea, and a
little above is a singular hanging rock, the top cut smooth into a
circular floor about 20 feet across. In the centre an altar is left, on
which are carved in bas-relief, on three sides, greyhounds, and on the
fourth--the front--something resembling the head and breast of a sphinx.
It looks south-east. The situation is exceedingly pretty, but why it
should be called Homer's School I cannot conceive. It was more probably
an altar to some deity whose shrine was near--possibly the deity of the
beautiful spring below.
There is in Scio an agreeable polyglot society of merchants of all
nations living together in harmony. One may find an English family where
English is the only language not spoken, the men perhaps speaking a
little badly, and the women going to church on Sunday and not
understanding a word. As Mr. North intends to remain here and Douglas
is starting homewards by way of St. Petersburg, Foster and I took leave
of them and sailed for Smyrna in the evening.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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