On the 20th we were still in the same place, the wind still blowing from the N.N.E.--a Greco Levante, as it is called--and the cold as bitter as ever it is in England. Snow fell and froze on the deck. The sea, which was warmer than the air, gave off a mist which rose from it in a thick steam. One of the sailors told me of some antiquities inland, and I tried to get to them; but first of all it was difficult to persuade the crew to turn out to put me ashore. They complained of the cold, and would not leave the cabin, where they were crouching over the fire. Once on shore I found everything frozen--ice rather thick--and when I got up to the town I found the antiquities were about three hours off, and nobody could give me any clear account of them; so I had to give it up and return to Pope's 'Homer' and the cabin. We lay here in all eight days--till the 22nd--shivering in a filthy cabin among the sailors, utterly idle and half starved. At last on that day we were able to move to the island of Vourlac, where we added two more days of wretchedness to our account; and then, when we had consumed every particle of food except our salt fish, we found a boat to carry us to Smyrna. The captain of the ship would not stir. The weather was still very rough, and the wretched coward waited another eight days before he ventured up. No one who has not experienced it, can have an idea of the horrors of a storm in a Greek brig. The sailors, out of all discipline or order, run about all over the ship in the most frantic attitudes of dismay, with their bushy heads of hair flying in all directions, and scream contrary orders to each other. Then the boldest, even if he be but the cabin boy, takes the command, abuses the captain and encourages the rest by his orders and example. All is in confusion, and if one escapes shipwreck it is more by good luck than by good management." FOOTNOTES: [35] Recent excavations by Messrs. Evans and Hogarth throw quite a different light on the true nature of the Labyrinth. [36] Mrs. Siddons (1755-1831) formally retired from the stage in 1812, but continued to appear occasionally until many years later. CHAPTER XII LIFE IN SMYRNA--TRIP TO TRIOS--FOSTER FALLS IN LOVE--COCKERELL STARTS ALONE FOR TOWN OF SEVEN CHURCHES--PERGAMO--KNIFNICH--SUMEH--COMMERCE ALL IN THE HANDS OF GREEKS--KARASMAN OGLU--TURCOMANS--SARDIS--ALLAH SHERI--CROSSES FROM VALLEY OF HERMUS TO THAT OF THE MEANDER--HIERAPOLIS --DANGER OF THE COUNTRY--TURNS WESTWARDS.