Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2Huc, Evariste Régis
General
Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2
Huc, Evariste Régis
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; China -- Description and travel; Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
The Lamasery of Kounboum, indeed, enjoys so high a reputation, that the
worshippers of Buddha resort thither in pilgrimage from all parts of
Tartary and Thibet, so that not a day passes in which there are not
pilgrims arriving and departing. Upon the great festivals, the
congregation of strangers is immense, and there are four of these in the
year, the most famous of all being the Feast of Flowers, which takes
place on the fifteenth day of the first moon. Nowhere is this festival
celebrated with so much pomp and solemnity as at Kounboum. Those which
take place in Tartary, in Thibet, and even at Lha-Ssa itself, are not at
all comparable with it. We were installed at Kounboum on the sixth of
the first moon, and already numerous caravans of pilgrims were arriving
by every road that led to the Lamasery. The festival was in every one’s
mouth. The flowers, it was said, were this year of surpassing beauty;
the Council of the Fine Arts, who had examined them, had declared them to
be altogether superior to those of preceding years. As soon as we heard
of these marvellous flowers, we hastened, as may be supposed, to seek
information respecting a festival hitherto quite unknown to us. The
following are the details with which we were furnished, and which we
heard with no little curiosity:—
The flowers of the fifteenth of the first moon consist of
representations, profane and religious, in which all the Asiatic nations
are introduced with their peculiar physiognomies and their distinguishing
costumes. Persons, places, apparel, decorations—all are formed of fresh
butter. Three months are occupied in the preparations for this singular
spectacle. Twenty Lamas, selected from among the most celebrated artists
of the Lamasery, are daily engaged in these butter-works, keeping their
hands all the while in water, lest the heat of the fingers should
disfigure their productions. As these labours take place chiefly in the
depth of the winter, the operators have much suffering to endure from the
cold. The first process is thoroughly to knead the butter, so as to
render it firm. When the material is thus prepared, the various portions
of the butter work are confided to various artists, who, however, all
alike work under the direction of a principal who has furnished the plan
of the flowers for the year, and has the general superintendence of their
production. The figures, etc., being prepared and put together, are then
confided to another set of artists, who colour them, under the direction
of the same leader. A museum of works in butter seemed to us so curious
an idea, that we awaited the fifteenth of the moon with somewhat of
impatience.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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