Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2Huc, Evariste Régis
General
Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China During the years 1844-5-6. Volume 2
Huc, Evariste Régis
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; China -- Description and travel; Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
The tribe of Amdo, previously altogether obscure and of no importance
whatever, has, since the reformation of Buddhism, acquired a prodigious
celebrity. The mountain at the foot of which Tsong-Kaba was born, became
a famous place of pilgrimage. Lamas assembled there from all parts to
build their cells, and thus by degrees was formed that flourishing
Lamasery, the fame of which extends to the remotest confines of Tartary.
It is called Kounboum, from two Thibetian words signifying Ten Thousand
Images, and having allusion to the tree which, according to the legend,
sprang from Tsong-Kaba’s hair, and bears a Thibetian character on each of
its leaves.
It will here be naturally expected that we say something about this tree
itself. Does it exist? Have we seen it? Has it any peculiar
attributes? What about its marvellous leaves? All these questions our
readers are entitled to put to us. We will endeavour to answer as
categorically as possible.
Yes, this tree does exist, and we had heard of it too often during our
journey not to feel somewhat eager to visit it. At the foot of the
mountain on which the Lamasery stands, and not far from the principal
Buddhist temple, is a great square enclosure, formed by brick walls.
Upon entering this we were able to examine at leisure the marvellous
tree, some of the branches of which had already manifested themselves
above the wall. Our eyes were first directed with earliest curiosity to
the leaves, and we were filled with an absolute consternation of
astonishment at finding that, in point of fact, there were upon each of
the leaves well-formed Thibetian characters, all of a green colour, some
darker, some lighter than the leaf itself. Our first impression was a
suspicion of fraud on the part of the Lamas; but, after a minute
examination of every detail, we could not discover the least deception.
The characters all appeared to us portions of the leaf itself, equally
with its veins and nerves; the position was not the same in all; in one
leaf they would be at the top of the leaf; in another, in the middle; in
a third, at the base, or at the side; the younger leaves represented the
characters only in a partial state of formation. The bark of the tree
and its branches, which resemble that of the plane tree, are also covered
with these characters. When you remove a piece [Picture: The Tree of Ten
Thousand Images] of old bark, the young bark under it exhibits the
indistinct outlines of characters in a germinating state, and, what is
very singular, these new characters are not unfrequently different from
those which they replace. We examined everything with the closest
attention, in order to detect some trace of trickery, but we could
discern nothing of the sort, and the perspiration absolutely trickled
down our faces under the influence of the sensations which this most
amazing spectacle created. More profound intellects than ours may,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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