Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860Mouhot, Henri
History
Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860
Mouhot, Henri
Cambodia -- Description and travel; Khmer language; Natural history -- Indochina; Thailand -- Description and travel
I soon found that, but for the letter from the governor of Korat, I
should have met everywhere with the same reception as at Chaiapume;
however, this missive was very positively worded. Wherever I went, the
authorities were ordered to furnish me with elephants, and supply me
with all necessary provisions, as if I were a king’s envoy. I was much
amused to see these petty provincial chiefs executing the orders of my
servants, and evidently in dread lest, following the Siamese custom, I
should use the stick.
One of my men, to give himself importance, had tied one of these
bugbears to the arms which he carried, and the sight of it alone
sufficed, with the sound of the tam-tam, to inspire fear, whilst small
presents judiciously distributed, and a little money to the cornacs,
procured me the sympathy of the people.
SUFFERINGS OF TRAVELLERS.
Most of the villages are situated about a day’s journey from one
another, but frequently you have to travel for three or four days
without seeing a single habitation, and then you have no alternative
but to sleep in the jungle. This might be pleasant in the dry season,
but, during the rains, nothing can give an idea of the sufferings
of travellers at night, under a miserable shelter of leaves hastily
spread over a rough framework of branches, assaulted by myriads of
mosquitoes attracted by the light of the fires and torches, by legions
of ox-flies, which, after sunset, attack human beings as well as
elephants, and by fleas so minute as to be almost invisible, which
assemble about you in swarms, and whose bites are excessively painful,
and raise enormous blisters.
To these enemies add the leeches, which, after the least rain, come
out of the ground, scent a man twenty feet off, and hasten to suck his
blood with wonderful avidity. To coat your legs with a layer of lime
when travelling is the only way to prevent them covering your whole
body.
I had left Bangkok on the 12th of April, and on the 16th of May I
reached Leuye, the chief town of a district belonging to two provinces,
Petchaboune and Lôme. It is situated in a narrow valley, like all the
towns and villages through which I have passed since I left Chaiapume.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Thérond, from a Photograph.
“PARK” OF ELEPHANTS, EXTERNAL VIEW.]
MINERALS.
This is the district of Siam richest in minerals; one of its mountains
contains immense beds of magnetic iron of a remarkably good quality.
Others yield antimony, argentiferous copper, and tin. The iron only
is worked, and this population, half agriculturists, half artisans,
furnish spades and cutlasses to all the surrounding provinces, even
beyond Korat. Yet they have neither foundries nor steam-engines, and
it is curious to see how little it costs an iron-worker to establish
himself in a hole about a yard and a half square hollowed out close to
the mountain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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