Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846Richardson, James
History
Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846
Richardson, James
Sahara -- Description and travel
His Excellency the Sheikh got very facetious to-day. He offered to sell
me his authority, his Sheikhdom, and retire from affairs. I bid one
thousand dollars for the concern. "No, no," said he, "I'll take ten
thousand dollars, nothing less." Then, getting very familiar, he added,
"Now, you and I are equal, you're Consul and I'm Sheikh--you're the son
of your Sultan, and I'm a commander under the Sultan of Stamboul." The
report of my being a Consul of a remote oasis of The Sahara was just as
good to me on the present occasion as if I had Her Majesty's commission
for the Consular Affairs of all North Africa. Who will say, then, there
is nothing in a name? A tourist in Africa should always take advantage of
these little rumours, provided they are innocent. But the traveller more
frequently has to encounter rumours to his disadvantage. Many visitors,
men, women, and children--some brought milk, others figs and soap. Soap
is considered a luxury in all the interior cities, and people will beg
soap though never use it, but keep it as a sort of treasure. Fig and
olive trees abound in the mountains, but for want of rain have produced
nothing this year. So of most other vegetables products. Goats only are
in abundance, of animals. The ordinary food of the people is bazeen, a
sort of boiled flour pudding, with a little high-seasoned herbal sauce,
and sometimes a little oil or mutton fat poured on. It is generally made
of barley-meal, but sometimes flour. This is the supper and principal
meal of the day. As a breakfast, a little milk is drank, or a few dates
with a bit of bread is eaten. The rule of these mountaineers is, indeed,
not to eat meat, though some of them have flocks of sheep.
_14th._--His Excellency the Sheikh roused me from my bed this morning. He
said he could not sleep, and therefore I ought not to sleep. According to
his Excellency, Rujban contains 500 souls, all in misery and starvation.
"The country is _batel_ (good for nothing)," he says. It is certain the
greater part of the people have not enough to eat, or half the quantity
of what is considered ordinarily sufficient. In the neighbouring
districts, S.W., there are 1,500 souls. Ahmed Bashaw destroyed the
greater part of the inhabitants of these mountains, and disarmed the
rest, leaving not a single matchlock amongst them. Such are the Turkish
ideas of mountain rule--absolute submission or extermination!
This morning is cool and temperate. Every day continue to administer
solution for ophthalmia, and even those whose eyes are quite well, will
have a drop of it put on their eyes. They say it will prevent them, after
I am gone, from having the malady. Everybody begs a bit of sugar, a
little bread, a scrap of paper, a something from the Christian. Content
all as well as I can.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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