Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846Richardson, James
History
Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846
Richardson, James
Sahara -- Description and travel
Our first object was to find the rendezvous of the ghafalah. I said to
Mohammed: "Are you sure the ghafalah is on the march to-day?" "The
ghafalah is like the sun," he replied, "every body knows it will move
to-day." About four hours after looking over the undulating ground, I
thought I saw at about six miles distant some black spots moving, and
turning to Mohammed, I said, "What's that?" He exclaimed, "The camels!
the camels! I told you I was right, and don't you see I have struck into
the right path?" I was glad to hear this, for I was not yet sufficiently
broken in to desert travelling to be wandering about as we were in search
of moving parties of the ghafalah. An hour after I took off the shade
from my eyes, for I had still a slight ophthalmia, and looking round, I
found we were in the midst of detached parties of the ghafalah, widely
apart, but all hurrying in one direction. We were not near enough (indeed
some miles off) to have any conversation with them. By noon we had all
rendezvoused upon a pleasant plateau of The Mountains. The merchants
welcomed my return, and asked me what I had been doing. I said, "We have
delayed too long." They smiled:--"Oh, you don't understand; you see we
have one day for buying oil, another day for barley, another for skins,
another for doing nothing," &c. It appeared to me a bungling way of doing
business. But some of them had been obliged to go a day's journey to
purchase a few things. The ghafalah had, in fact, been scattered all over
The Mountains. A few never left Yefran. This was my first taste of delay
in Saharan travel.
We began our four days' journey in the evening, and continued all night
up to two hours before sunrise. The camels then rested but were not
unpacked. All the people now got a few winks of sleep. At dawn we started
again, and halted for the day after two hours and a half of marching. In
the afternoon, about half-past four, we then resumed our march, and in
this manner we continued for the four days. Our pace was upon an average
three miles per hour, sometimes two and a half, and sometimes three and a
half. On looking at the camel you think it goes slow, but when you look
at the driver, you observe that he is often kept up to a very good
walking pace. Our camels were five days without drinking, for they drank
the morning before we left.
I was once going to write, "the Arabs pack their camels as badly as
possible; make their journeys as long as possible; travel as much in the
sun as possible[16];" but these last four days have convinced me that,
under the guidance of a good Arab chief, they know what they are about,
and can do things with order and dispatch.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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