Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846Richardson, James
History
Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846
Richardson, James
Sahara -- Description and travel
The morning of the 20th was horribly hot, but I was housed and sheltered
in the old _burge_. I received a present of some fresh dates. This was
the small black date of Ghadames, which is peculiar to two or three
oases about here. They were delicious as fruits of the garden of the
Houris, and certainly now more esteemed by me. The Commandant, seeing me
write to-day, wished to have the honour of his name being written in my
journal. It is Omer Ben Aly Ben Kareem Bez-Zeen Laseeâ. The people showed
no jealousy at my writing notes. Indeed, they were quite aware this was
part of my business, and often assisted in telling me the names of
persons and places. Never went an European into the interior with less
suspicions flying about him amongst his fellow-travellers. I attribute
this, in a great measure, to the frankness with which I spoke about
Government and the Turkish authorities, as well as the Consular people of
Tripoli. Besides, I never affected to conceal my objects. Here a man
wrote in my journal the names of abuse applied to the lazy, lagging
camels, for his own especial amusement; viz., "_Ya kafer, Ya kelb, Ya
Yehoud_, 'Oh thou infidel!' 'Oh thou dog!' 'Oh thou Jew!'" In a quarrel,
the Arabs transfer them complacently to one another, with sundry
additions and oaths, too broad for ears polite. _Kafer_, ("infidel,") and
_Deen El-kelb_, ("religion of a dog,") are the most odious terms of abuse
which they can throw at one another.
_21st._--We left early this first sprinkle of Seenawan vegetation, and
passed the 22nd at the larger spot of the oases. This second spot is
called Shâour; but both oases are included in the first name, as Ghat and
Berkat are included in _Ghat_. It is necessary to make these distinctions
in order to guard against error in laying down the routes. Shâour
consists of a few stunted date-trees, a little _gusub_, a grain esteemed
almost as much as wheat, and one or two fig or other fruit-trees. The
united oasis, though but containing a population of sixty souls, and all
very poor people, pay 600 mahboubs per annum to the Pasha of Tripoli. The
oldest man of the place told me, that, from the first hour of his
observation and recollection, to the present time, the water had always
been the same in quantity. There is always a little more in the winter.
It is running water, and as it runs and bubbles up to the surface it is
distributed over the little garden plots and patches. I asked him why he
did not make the gardens larger? "God bless you," he replied, "we would
if we had more water." It is surprising to notice the regularity of even
this scanty supply of water through the years of an old man's life,
upwards of eighty, in the heart of The Desert, for such is the site of
the oasis of Seenawan. I looked about for birds, but saw none. My aged
informant said, "In the winter there are some doves." No wild beast haunt
the environs; they cannot get at the water. The people keep a few sheep,
goats, and fowls.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account