Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
About half past eight in the morning we lay to for half an hour
before the island. We saw the little village of Khokhoola, which
like Diré, is a dependence of Timbuctoo. Here we met a little canoe
which had left that city on the preceding morning. She had on board
several of the Soorgoos, who exact a maintenance for themselves as
far as Salacoila, where they stop, and then get conveyed home by
some returning canoes. If they cannot obtain a conveyance in this
way, they travel home by land. At Khokhoola the river takes a little
turn to the N. E. and then to the north. The Soorgoos were waiting
for us in the village, having been informed of our expected arrival.
They came on board the canoes, being rowed, from the shore, in
little boats of their own. They were supplied with rice and water
and honey mixed, a beverage of which they are exceedingly fond, and
which they call _Jenné-hari_ (water of Jenné.) These vagabonds levy
their exactions without moderation. We did not allow them to come
on board our canoe; we handed them out a bag of rice and they went
away to importune some of our companions. When they are on board
the canoes, and the negroes want to get rid of them, they fire a
musket close to their ears, and they speedily take their departure,
for they are very much afraid of gunpowder. They themselves never
make use of fire-arms.
During the visit of the Soorgoos I was directed to go below,
to avoid being seen by them; for, when they see a Moor on board,
especially if his colour be lighter than usual, they assert that
he is richer than the rest, as if his fortune depended on his
complexion. They then become extremely troublesome, and will not
suffer the canoes to depart without exacting a contribution from
the white man, whom they call _almankoye_ (the rich man.).
I was afterwards informed that these savages had detained on
shore a Moor, whose complexion was, unluckily, not very dark,
and who was imprudent enough not to conceal himself. They extorted
merciless contributions from him. The Moors, aware of this danger,
are accustomed to conceal themselves in the canoes, and only quit
their hiding-place during the night.
The negroes only have the privilege of remaining on deck; they
are looked upon as an inferior class, who have not much to give,
and are merely the servants of the Moorish merchant.
Wishing to see without being seen, I made several holes in
the matting that covered that part of the canoe in which I was
concealed. In this place the heat was so excessive, that it gave
me a violent head-ache. The Moorish merchants of Timbuctoo have no
authority over these robbers: not one of them would have ventured
among the Soorgoos to claim the six canoes which were so long
detained. If they had, they would have been sure of being laid
under contribution themselves; yet, they frequently make presents
to the Soorgoos.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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