Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
At length, we arrived safely at Timbuctoo, just as the sun was
touching the horizon. I now saw this capital of the Soudan,
to reach which had so long been the object of my wishes. On
entering this mysterious city, which is an object of curiosity
and research to the civilised nations of Europe, I experienced an
indescribable satisfaction. I never before felt a similar emotion
and my transport was extreme. I was obliged, however to restrain
my feelings, and to God alone did I confide my joy. With what
gratitude did I return thanks to Heaven, for the happy result which
attended my enterprise! How many grateful thanksgivings did I pour
forth for the protection which God had vouchsafed to me, amidst
obstacles and dangers which appeared insurmountable. This duty
being ended, I looked around and found that the sight before me,
did not answer my expectations. I had formed a totally different
idea of the grandeur and wealth of Timbuctoo. The city presented,
at first view, nothing but a mass of ill-looking houses, built of
earth. Nothing was to be seen in all directions but immense plains
of quicksand of a yellowish white colour. The sky was a pale red as
far as the horizon: all nature wore a dreary aspect, and the most
profound silence prevailed; not even the warbling of a bird was to
be heard. Still, though I cannot account for the impression, there
was something imposing in the aspect of a great city, raised in the
midst of sands, and the difficulties surmounted by its founders
cannot fail to excite admiration. I am inclined to think, that
formerly the river flowed close to Timbuctoo; though at present it
is eight miles to the north of that city, and five miles from Cabra,
in the same direction.
I took up my abode with Sidi-Abdallahi, who received me in the most
friendly manner. He had already been indirectly acquainted with the
alleged circumstances, which, as I pretended, had occasioned my
journey across the Soudan. He invited me to sup with him; and an
excellent couscous of millet and mutton was served up. Six of us
partook of the dish, and we ate with our fingers; but in as cleanly
a way as was possible under such circumstances. Sidi-Abdallahi,
according to the custom of his countrymen, did not say a word to
me. He was a mild, quiet, reserved man. His age might be about
forty or forty-five. He was five feet high, stout and pitted with
the small-pox. His countenance was pleasing, his manners grave,
and rather dignified. He had no fault but his religious fanaticism.
After bidding my host good night, I went to repose upon a mat which
was spread upon the ground in my new lodging. At Timbuctoo the nights
are as hot as the days, and I could get no rest in the chamber which
had been prepared for me. I removed to the court adjoining the house,
but still found it impossible to sleep. The heat was oppressive;
not a breath of air freshened the atmosphere. In the whole course
of my travels I never found myself more uncomfortable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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