Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
The cakes of salt are tied together with cords, made of a sort
of grass which grows in the neighbourhood of Tandaye. This grass
is dry when gathered; but it is afterwards moistened, and then
buried under ground to keep it from the sun and the east wind,
which would dry it too rapidly. When sufficiently impregnated with
moisture, it is taken out of the earth and platted into cord, which
the Moors use for various purposes. The camels frequently throw
their loads off their backs, and when the cakes of salt arrive in
the town they are frequently broken. This would spoil their sale,
if the merchants did not take the precaution of making the slaves
join them together again. When the pieces are fastened together,
the cakes are packed up again with a stronger kind of cord made
of bull’s hide. The cakes are ornamented with little designs,
such as stripes, lozenges, &c., traced in black. The slaves are very
fond of executing these ornaments, an employment which enables them
to collect a little supply of salt for their own use. In general,
the slaves are better treated at Timbuctoo than in other countries.
They are well clothed and fed, and seldom beaten. They are required
to observe religious duties, which they do very punctually; but
they are nevertheless regarded as merchandise, and are exported to
Tripoli, Morocco, and other parts of the coast, where they are not
so happy as at Timbuctoo. They always leave that place with regret,
though they are ignorant of the fate that awaits them elsewhere.
At the time of my departure, I saw several slaves affectionately
bidding each other adieu. The conformity of their melancholy
condition excites among them a feeling of sympathy and mutual
interest. At parting, they recommended good behaviour to each other;
but the Moors frequently hurry their departure, and interrupt
these affecting scenes, which are so well calculated to excite
commiseration for their fate.
When I was at the mosque, a middle-aged Moor stepped up to me
gravely, and without saying a word slipped a handful of cowries into
the pocket of my coussabe. He withdrew immediately, without affording
me time to thank him. I was much surprised at this delicate way of
giving alms.
The city of Timbuctoo forms a sort of triangle, measuring about three
miles in circuit. The houses are large, but not high, consisting
entirely of a ground-floor. In some, a sort of little closet is
constructed above the entrance. They are built of bricks of a round
form, rolled in the hands, and baked in the sun. The walls, except
as far as regards their height, resemble those of Jenné.
The streets of Timbuctoo are clean, and sufficiently wide to permit
three horsemen to pass abreast. Both within and without the town
there are many straw huts of a circular form, like those of the
pastoral Foulahs. They serve as dwellings for the poor, and for
the slaves who sell merchandise for their masters.
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