Travels through the South of France and the Interior of Provinces of Provence and Languedoc in the Years 1807 and 1808Pinkney, lieutenant-colonel (Ninian)
History
Travels through the South of France and the Interior of Provinces of Provence and Languedoc in the Years 1807 and 1808
Pinkney, lieutenant-colonel (Ninian)
France -- Description and travel
every service in my power, and would even have made sacrifices to serve
them."--"And yet if you were to see them again, you would perhaps not
know them."--"Very possibly," replied she. "But I can see no reason why
every affection should be necessarily permanent. We never pretend to
permanence. We are certainly transient, but not insincere."
In this conversation we reached Ancennis, a village on a green,
surrounded by forests. Some of the cottages, as we saw them by
moon-light, seemed most delightfully situated, and the village had
altogether that air of quietness and of rural retreat, which
characterizes the scenery of the Loire. Our horses having preceded us by
an hour or more, every thing was prepared for us when we reached our
inn. A turkey had been put down to roast, and I entered the kitchen in
time to prevent its being spoilt by French cookery. Mademoiselle Sillery
had the table provided in an instant with silver forks and table-linen.
Had a Parisian seen a table thus set out at Ancennis, without knowing
that we had brought all these requisites with us, he would not have
credited his senses. The inns in France along the banks of the Loire,
are less deficient in substantial comforts than in these ornamental
appendages. Poultry is every where cheap, and in great plenty; but a
French inn-keeper has no idea of a table-cloth, and still less of a
clean one. He will give you food and a feather-bed, but you must provide
yourselves with sheets and table-cloths. Our accommodations, with
respect to lodging for the night, were not altogether so uncomfortable:
the house had indeed two floors, but there were no stairs; so that we
had to ascend by a ladder, and that not the best of its kind. There
being, moreover, but two rooms, the one occupied by the landlord, his
wife, and two grown girls, there was some difficulty as to the disposal
of Mademoiselle Sillery and myself. It was at length arranged, that all
the females in the house should sleep in one room, and all the males in
another. When I came to take possession of my bed, I found that Mrs.
Younge had contrived to exempt her husband from this arrangement: he was
now sleeping by the side of the handsomest woman in France, whilst I was
lying at one end of a dirty room, the other being occupied by the
snoring landlord. Fatigue, however, according to the proverb, is better
than a bed of down; I accordingly soon fell asleep, and Mademoiselle
Sillery was not absent from my dreams. I should not forget to mention,
as another specimen of French manners, that I learned from this lady on
the following day, that she had slept with her sister and her husband.
Such are French manners.
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