Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile, Volume 1 (of 5): In the years 1768, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772 and 1773Bruce, James
History
Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile, Volume 1 (of 5): In the years 1768, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772 and 1773
Bruce, James
Egypt -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- History; Natural history -- Ethiopia; Nile River
This magnificent monument appears, in taste, to be the work of that
period, between Hadrian and Severus; but, though the former erected
several large buildings in the east, it is observed of him he never put
inscriptions upon them.
This has had a Greek inscription, and I think may very probably be
attributed to the time of the latter, as a monument of the gratitude
of the city of Alexandria for the benefits he conferred on them,
especially since no ancient history mentions its existence at an
earlier period.
I apprehend it to have been brought in a block from the Thebais in
Upper Egypt, by the Nile; though some have imagined it was an old
obelisk, hewn to that round form. It is nine feet diameter; and were it
but 80 feet high, it would require a prodigious obelisk indeed, that
could admit to be hewn to this circumference for such a length, so as
perfectly to efface the hieroglyphics that must have been very deeply
cut in the four faces of it.
The tomb of Alexander has been talked of as one of the antiquities
of this city. Marmol[64] says he saw it in the year 1546. It was,
according to him, a small house, in form of a chapel, in the middle of
the city, near the church of St Mark, and was called Escander.
The thing itself is not probable, for all those that made themselves
masters of Alexandria, in the earliest times, had too much respect for
Alexander, to have reduced his tomb to so obscure a state. It would
have been spared even by the Saracens; for Mahomet speaks of Alexander
with great respect, both as a king and a prophet. The body was
preserved in a glass coffin, in [65]Strabo’s time, having been robbed
of the golden one in which it was first deposited.
The Greeks, for the most part, are better instructed in the history
of these places than the Cophts, Turks, or Christians; and, after the
Greeks, the Jews.
As I was perfectly disguised, having for many years worn the dress of
the Arabs, I was under no constraint, but walked through the town in
all directions, accompanied by any of those different nations I could
induce to walk with me; and, as I constantly spoke Arabic, was taken
for a [66]Bedowé by all sorts of people; but, notwithstanding the
advantage this freedom gave me, and of which I daily availed myself, I
never could hear a word of this monument from either Greek, Jew, Moor,
or Christian.
Alexandria has been often taken since the time of Cæsar. It was at
last destroyed by the Venetians and Cypriots, upon, or rather after
the release of St Lewis, and we may say of it as of Carthage, _Periêre
ruinæ_, its very ruins appear no longer.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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