Trichocosmos: Notes historical, æsthetical, ethnological, physiological, anecdotal and tonsorial, on the hair & beardAnonymous
History
Trichocosmos: Notes historical, æsthetical, ethnological, physiological, anecdotal and tonsorial, on the hair & beard
Anonymous
Barbering; Beards; Hair; Hairdressing; Wigs
One of the mysteries of the craft was the art of dyeing hair, and every
barber was supposed to be fully initiated in this occult science.
Greeks and Romans performed similar feats in their day, but blonde
hair being most esteemed, the compositions they used were of a very
different nature to those employed by the moderns; strictly speaking
they could hardly be called dyes, they partook more of the nature of
caustic pomades and pigments: such were the _pilæ Mattiacæ_, the
_caustica spuma_, _spuma Battava_, &c., of their authors,
imported for the most part from Germany. Making old folks young again,
at least in appearance, was not beyond the power of Roman art, for
the locks of age, white as the plumage of the swan, could be suddenly
changed to that of a crow. Sir Thomas Brown suggests that Medea might
have possessed some famous dye:--“That Medea, the famous sorceress,
could renew youth, and make old men young again, was nothing else but
that, from the knowledge of simples, she had a receipt to make white
hair black, and reduce old heads into the tincture of youth again.”
Mohammed forbade the dyeing of the hair; and a story is told of Herod,
that in order to conceal his advanced age, he used secretly to dye his
grey locks with a dark pigment In the greater number of Anglo-Saxon
M.S.S. the hair and beard are painted blue, and sometimes green and
orange. Strutt concluded from this, that the Saxons dyed or tinged
their hair in some way; but the point is doubtful. In the fourteenth
century, yellow was the favourite colour, and saffron was used as a
dye. Again, in Elizabeth’s reign, fair hair became fashionable, and the
ladies used various compositions to obtain the desired shade. Stubbes
is indignant at the practice, and exclaims with his usual warmth:--“If
any have hair of their own natural growing which is not fair enough,
then will they dye it in divers colours, almost changing the substance
into accidents by their devilish, and worse than these, cursed
devices.” Foreign charlatans, quack doctors, and astrologers, were
formidable rivals of the barber, and succeeded in disposing of their
dyes and cosmetics in the most unblushing manner; some affected to be
so occupied in the sublime study of contriving cures for all the ills
which flesh is heir to, as to have no leisure for cosmetic practice,
and coolly announced that their wives attended to such matters. A high
German doctor and astrologer informed the public that he was blessed
with a wife “who could make red hair as white as a lily, shape the
eyebrows to a miracle, make low foreheads as high as you please, and
had a rich water which would make the hair curl.” The practice of
shaping the eyebrows, though now in disuse, was at one time considered
a very delicate and important operation. Every one has remarked the
extreme fineness of the eyebrows in the pictures of the great Italian
masters. The St. Catherine of Rafaelle, and the Saints of Francia, in
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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