Circassia (Russia) -- Social life and customs; Crimea (Ukraine) -- Social life and customs; Harems
We had a pleasant luncheon at Colonel S----'s, and the live stock
of the yacht was increased by the kind gift (rather to Mr. Harvey's
horror) of a pair of quite lovely geese. We had not believed the
usually despised goose could be so beautiful a bird. These geese
were as white as snow, had backs and wings covered with long curling
feathers like ostrich plumes, and had bright pink bills and feet;
but for their unfortunate voices they might have set up for swans. Our
dear birds, however, did not approve of being summarily torn from the
paternal pond and packed in a basket, so they hissed and cackled all
the rest of the day in a thoroughly goose-like and provoking manner.
From Kerani we went to St. George's Monastery--a long low building,
standing apparently in a flat, ugly country; but on passing through an
archway, and descending a few steps, an enchanting view was before us.
The convent is built upon the extreme edge of a steep wooded cliff
overhanging a little bay. Paths had been cut through the wood, and
wound down between trees and rocks to the verge of the sea, where tiny
waves were coming quietly in upon a shining beach, trickling back
amongst the many-coloured shells and stones with a pleasant murmur,
most refreshing on such a burningly hot day. But the sun was now
glowing with almost blinding heat upon this the western side, so we
retired into the interior of the building until the intolerable glare
should have somewhat subsided.
There are now only five brethren of the order living at
St. George. Since the war the number has greatly diminished, and
some are required for another house at Simpheropol. We were invited
to have some tea, an offer we thankfully accepted, and while it
was getting ready were asked to pay a visit to the cells. They were
fairly comfortable, indeed better than may be found in many religious
houses in Italy and France, that have not so strict a rule as the
Greek convents.
Each brother was provided with a table, a stool, some boards on
tressels for a bed, a mattress (certainly very thin), and a blanket;
but what can monks wish for more? In the Greek Church, the severity of
monastic life consists principally in the length and rigid observance
of the frequent fasts, and in the small amount of sleep that is
permitted. There is scarcely a religious house in which meat is ever
eaten, and twice a week, during the long fast of Easter, only one
meal a day is allowed, consisting of beans boiled with oil.
As there are no inns in this part of the world, excepting in towns,
monasteries answer the purpose, and though payment is not permitted,
each traveller, ere he departs, is expected to drop an offering into
the poor-box.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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