Circassia (Russia) -- Social life and customs; Crimea (Ukraine) -- Social life and customs; Harems
While waiting for the tea, some water was brought from the famous
spring of St. George. It is celebrated for miles around, and well
deserves its fame. Fresh, sparkling, and cold as if iced, it was
really nectar. Well for us it was so, for we needed some little
compensation for the disappointment that awaited us with respect to
the much-wished-for, long-promised tea. The eagerly-expected beverage,
when it did at last arrive, was brought in tumblers, without either
milk or sugar, and being a very strong decoction of something bitter,
between sloes and haystalks, it was so like a horrid medicine called
"black draught," that nothing but the strongest exertion of good
manners could enable one to swallow even a few drops.
At six o'clock we went into chapel for the Ave Maria. The chapel is
a neat little building, detached from the monastery, and has some
altar-pieces remarkably well painted. The pictures of the saints
were covered with plaques of gold and silver in alto-relievo, and
had glories of precious stones around their heads.
The congregation was very limited, for it consisted of only three
brethren, the sacristan, and one old woman, but the service was
got over with wonderful speed, though with no apparent disrespect of
manner. Vespers over, we were shown the chapel. Behind the altar-screen
was an exceedingly good picture of The Crucifixion, but as it was
in a part of the building that women are not allowed to profane by
their unholy presence, my sister and I had to remain on the other side
of the altar, the monks most good-naturedly drawing aside curtains,
and trying to give us as good a view as possible.
The evening had by this time become cool and pleasant, so we strolled
down the cliffs to look at the ancient chapel, the hanging gardens,
and the renowned spring. Excepting its antiquity, the former possesses
no interest; it is a very small stone building, supposed to have been
erected by the Genoese when they occupied this country, but both in
form and decoration it is remarkably simple.
The stream poured forth from the rock with delicious freshness,
dashing, in a series of tiny cascades, from terrace to terrace, ever
sprinkling with a shower of brilliant drops the mosses and tender
ferns that grew on its banks, until, on reaching the good monks'
gardens, it flowed decorously through appointed channels. Then,
its duties over, it gave one glad bound, as a miniature waterfall,
over the rocks into the sea, and was lost in the embrace of its mighty
mother. The terrace-gardens are beautifully kept, for the monks labour
in them unceasingly. The good fathers are the principal doctors of the
district, and grow, therefore, not only vegetables for their own use,
but most of the plants and herbs required for medicinal purposes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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