Our Armenian cook Migirditch proved a treasure, more indispensable to
us, as it turned out, than our doctor, whose services, fortunately,
neither Dr. Hepworth nor I culled into requisition during the whole of
our journey. This man would gallop alone ahead and reach our evening’s
destination long before us; for our usual rate of progress could
scarcely have exceeded three to four miles an hour. Thus we had not to
wait when we arrived, but found a well-prepared meal ready for us. How
he managed to find his way when there were no visible roads remains a
mystery to me to this day. Altogether, the efficiency, the general
readiness of this man, the only one of our party who had a notion how to
prepare food in European fashion, furnished an excellent illustration of
the adaptability of the Armenians. It helped to explain and justify
their ambition to rise in the world out of their easy-going
surroundings. Indeed, it is only fair to state that throughout our whole
journey the Armenians were the only section of the population which
seemed to be at all imbued with Carlyle’s gospel of work; which tends to
explain their unpopularity with the Turks on economic grounds.
We were not destined to see much of the fauna of the country, which is
said to consist of panthers, wolves, hyænas, and many species of the
feathered tribe, including buzzard and blackcock. Birds of prey we saw
in plenty, hovering in the air above us, chiefly vultures, the presence
of which was easily to be explained by the occasional carcasses of dead
horses and camels we passed on our way. One day a soldier of our escort
shot an eagle. It was only winged when it fell, and thus maimed, the
soldier brought it into the shed in which we were lying, where it
fluttered about, beating its wings. It was not a pleasant sight to see
the noble bird, the emblem of imperial power, being beaten to death in
our presence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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