Not far from Biredschik we rode past Nisib, a village noteworthy through
the battle of that name (June 24, 1839), in which the Turks under Hafis
Pasha were signally defeated by the Egyptians under Ibrahim Pasha. The
renowned Moltke, then a plain Prussian captain, was a looker-on with the
Turks on this occasion, and it is said that they owed their defeat to
having neglected his advice in the disposition of the troops in that
battle.
Our road now took us through a flat country, and our spirits rose under
the improved conditions. At mid-day we used to make a halt, tie up the
horses, light a fire, and take an improvised lunch in the open. One day
we rested beside a stream on the opposite bank of which one of the
soldiers had placed a winebottle as a target. The Sultan had presented
us each with a revolver on starting, and our Turkish escort were firing
away with them at random, without, however, “driving the centre.” Dr.
Hepworth and I stood aside, looking on somewhat amused, which made the
situation rather awkward when Sirry Bey suggested we should join in and
have a shot. This, however, we hesitated to do, for the good reason that
we had previously tested our revolvers on board ship and found that we
could not hit a haystack with them. Finally, Dr. Hepworth also urged me
to try my luck; so, not wishing to appear churlish, I took a haphazard
aim, and, to my intense surprise, down came the bottle. The others were
much impressed, and begged me to repeat the exploit. This, however, I
firmly declined to do, preferring to leave them under the impression of
my dexterity. Few things struck me more forcibly on that journey than
the lack of practice with firearms right through this supposed warlike
population. We never came across a single rifle-range on the whole of
our journey, and on one occasion when we attended an improvised shooting
competition among the Kurds their marksmanship was of a very inferior
order, and the behaviour of the competitors so excited that I gained the
impression they might resent anybody excelling them at their sport.
We had met few horsemen since we left the land of the Kurds; but after
Biredschik they again appeared on the scene. Now, however, they were
Syrians, men in white flowing garments—bournous—resembling the Arab
costumes familiar through Schreyer’s pictures of Algerian life, wielding
spears of twelve to fifteen feet in length. They gave us an equally warm
reception, and, like the Kurds, accompanied us for hours on our way.
The rest of our journey to Aintab was now plane-sailing. The road was
tolerable and the traffic such as gave evidence of some degree of
commercial activity. We counted over 1200 camels laden with merchandise
which we passed in one day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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