Founded by Alexander the Great, Alexandretta is picturesquely situated,
but otherwise a poor place, bearing all the signs of Oriental neglect;
even the harbour, at which various steamers call, looked deserted and
dilapidated. The town itself is surrounded on the land side by swamps,
to the fever-breeding character of which the many white gravestones in
the large cemetery seemed to offer eloquent testimony, inasmuch as the
place has only about 1500 inhabitants. Thus the European colony gives it
a wide berth, for its members reside ten miles away in the pleasantly
situated town of Beilan. The vegetation, however, is very rich, almost
tropical in character: beautiful palms and giant cactus plants flourish
in abundance.
In summarizing the incidents of our journey, which had now come to an
end, our Hungarian doctor turned to Dr. Hepworth and myself and said:
“_Now_ that we are well out of it I think we can congratulate each other
all round. For I do not mind telling you that there was hardly a day, or
rather a night, on this terrible journey in which we were not exposed to
the risk of catching smallpox or typhus.” At Erzeroum several of us had
been vaccinated, by the advice of the British Consul, though it was only
with the greatest difficulty that lymph above suspicion was procured in
the town.
Another, and by no means a trifling, danger which we luckily escaped was
one which had been foretold us in Constantinople as the most serious
possibility of our journey, namely, snowstorms and heavy rains producing
floods. Had we encountered either of them in an awkward place it might
have delayed us for days, even for weeks, in a country without roads or
bridges. Fortunately, we met with neither the one nor the other. During
the whole eight weeks we were on the road it never rained, and only
snowed now and then for short periods.
Shortly after leaving Erzeroum our leader, Sirry Bey, was taken
seriously ill with an internal inflammation, which only yielded to the
application of ice. On this account we were obliged to remain several
days in a village on the road to Bitlis until he got better. But even
then he had to be borne between two poles fastened to two horses. But
for our Hungarian doctor he would probably have succumbed.
We were obliged to leave our Roumanian interpreter behind us in a
hospital at Alexandretta, as he had contracted erysipelas in a Turkish
bath at Erzeroum. This complaint developed into an infectious disease of
a tuberculous character termed sycosis, which necessitated shaving off
all the hair on his body. Thus afflicted he had accompanied us all the
way, and we often had to put up with his sleeping on the ground close to
us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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