Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. ShermanByers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
History
Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. Sherman
Byers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
Europe -- Description and travel
The next evening, at twilight, on our vessel’s deck, far out at sea, I
lingered and looked at the Isle of Wight, the lighthouse and the dim,
gray crags, with the waves beating against them.
We were twelve days reaching New York, and had storms and hurricanes
half the way over. The “Deutschland” survived them all, only to go to
the bottom, on a later voyage, with three hundred people. That was in
the Channel. One day, on this, our New York voyage, everything seemed
to be going to pieces, and for an hour or so I knew how it felt to be
very close to death. I was more alarmed than I had ever been in any
battle. In war, one expects death almost. Here it was different. Not
a human being could keep his feet a moment. There was more than one
said good-by to comrades that day, as he supposed, forever. I had but
one friend on board, Dr. C. T. Terry of New York, who lived in Zurich
for many years, and with whom I had made hundreds of foot excursions
in the mountains. He was a dentist, possibly in his calling not second
to Dr. Evans in Paris. He had come to Switzerland a poor youth, and,
by honor, skill and diligence, had amassed a fortune. He, like myself,
had left a wife and child behind in Zurich. In the midst of the
hurricane, we shook hands, and in a few words agreed what should be
done, should either survive. Had that ship gone down, I would certainly
not be writing here. No lifeboat there but was being torn to pieces;
nothing of human hands could have withstood that sea’s fury another
hour. But it was a grand sight spite of the terror. It was ten in the
morning, snowing, and the sun shining, every minute, turn about.
As the hurricane eased up, I hung on to a rope by the bridge, and miles
away could see lofty white-caps, their shining crowns lighted by the
sun, lift themselves and thunder together, or roll on toward us till
they would strike the ship. The sea was rolling in deep, green valleys,
and, as the ship would leap across these watery gorges, the view right
and left was indescribably grand. I looked at the awful ocean, and
thought of Switzerland. It was as if the valleys of the Alps had turned
to green, rushing waters, and the mountains had commenced falling. I
would almost take the risk again, to see so grand a sight.
_October, 1872._--The morning after the storm, the sea was still
running high, but passengers could keep their feet and, if well enough,
talk together.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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