In truth, however, such laws had existed not only in France and England, but since the days of the old Locrian legislation, when it was ordered that no woman should go attended with more than one maid in the street “unless she were drunk.” Ancient Rome and Sparta were surrounded by dress restrictions which were broken just as were similar ones in more modern times. The Roman could wear a robe but of a single color; he could wear in embroideries not more than half an ounce of gold; and, with what seems churlishness he was forbidden to ride in a carriage. At that time, just as in later days, dress was made to emphasize class distinction, and the clergy joined with the magistrates in denouncing extravagant dress in both men and women. The chronicles of the monks are ever chiding men for their peaked shoes, deep sleeves and curled locks like women, and Savonarola outdid them all in severity. The English kings and queens, jealous of the rich dress of their opulent subjects, multiplied restrictions, and some very curious anecdotes exist of the calm assumption by both Elizabeth and Mary to their own wardrobe of the rich finery of some lady at the court who displayed some new and too becoming fancy. Old Venice Point Lace. Old Venice Point Lace. Adam Smith declared it “an act of highest impertinence and presumption for kings and rulers to pretend to watch over the earnings and expenditure of private persons,” nevertheless this public interference lingered long, especially under monarchies. These sumptuary laws of New England followed in spirit and letter similar laws in England. Winthrop had seen the many apprentices who ran through London streets, dressed under laws as full of details of dress as is a modern journal of the modes. For instance, the apprentice’s head-covering must be a small, flat, round cap, called often a bonnet—a hat like a pie-dish. The facing of the hat could not exceed three inches in breadth in the head; nor could the hat with band and facing cost over five shillings. His band or collar could have no lace edge; it must be of linen not over five shillings an ell in price; and could have no other work or ornament save “a plain hem and one stitch”—which was a hemstitch. If he wore a ruff, it must not be over three inches wide before it was gathered and set into the “stock.” The collar of his doublet could have neither “point, well-bone or plait,” but must be made “close and comely.” The stuff of his doublet and breeches could not cost over two shillings and sixpence a yard. It could be either cloth, kersey, fustian, sackcloth, canvas, or “English stuff”; or leather could be used. The breeches were generally of the shape known as “round slops.” His stockings could be knit or of cloth; but his shoes could have no polonia heels. His hair was to be cut close, with no “tuft or lock.”