Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
In 1639 “immoderate great breeches, knots of riban, broad shoulder
bands and rayles, silk roses, double ruffles and capes” were forbidden
to folk of low estate. Soon the court expressed its “utter detestation
and dislike,” that men and women of “mean condition, education and
calling” should take upon themselves “the garb of gentlemen” by wearing
gold and silver lace, buttons and points at the knee, or “walk in great
boots,” or women of the same low rank to wear silk or tiffany hoods or
scarfs. There were likewise orders that no short sleeves should be worn
“whereby the nakedness of the arms may be discovered”; women’s sleeves
were not to be more than half an ell wide; long hair and immodest
laying out of the hair and wearing borders of hair were abhorrent. Poor
folk must not appear with “naked breasts and arms; or as it were
pinioned with superstitious ribbons on hair and apparell.” Tailors who
made garments for servants or children, richer than the garments of the
parents or masters of these juniors, were to be fined. Similar laws
were passed in Connecticut and Virginia. I know of no one being
“psented” under these laws in Virginia, but in Connecticut and
Massachusetts both men and women were fined. In 1676, in Northampton,
thirty-six young women at one time were brought up for overdress
chiefly in hoods; and an amusing entry in the court record is that one
of them, Hannah Lyman, appeared in the very hood for which she was
fined; and was thereupon censured for “wearing silk in a fflonting
manner, in an offensive way, not only before but when she stood
Psented. Not only in Ordinary but Extraordinary times.” These girls
were all fined; but six years later, when a stern magistrate attempted
a similar persecution, the indictments were quashed.
The Tub-preacher. The Tub-preacher.
It is not unusual to find the careless observer or the superficial
reader—and writer—commenting upon the sumptuary laws of the New World
as if they were extraordinary and peculiar. There appeared in a recent
American magazine a long rehearsal of the unheard-of presumption of
Puritan magistrates in their prohibition of certain articles of dress.
This writer was evidently wholly ignorant of the existence of similar
laws in England, and even of like laws in Virginia, but railed against
Winthrop and Endicott as monsters of Puritanical arrogance and
impudence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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