Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
In the eleventh chapter of Corinthians wise Paul delivered some
sentences of exhortation, of reproof, of warning to Corinthian women
which I presume he understood and perhaps Corinthian dames did, but
which have been a dire puzzle since to parsons and male members of
their congregations. (I cannot think that women ever bothered much
about his words.) For instance, Archbishop Latimer, in one of the
cheerful, slangy rallies to his hearers which he called sermons, quotes
Paul’s sentence that a woman ought to have a power on her head, and
construes positively that a power is a French hood. This is certainly a
somewhat surprising notion, but I presume he knew. However, Roger
Williams deemed a power a veil; and being somewhat dictatorial in his
words, albeit the tenderest of creatures in his heart, he bade Salem
women come to meeting in a veil, telling them they should come like
Sarah of old, wearing this veil as a token of submission to their
husbands. The text saith this exactly, “A woman ought to have power on
her head because of the angels,” which seems to me one of those
convenient sayings of Paul and others which can be twisted to many, to
any meanings, even to Latimer’s French hood. Old John Cotton, of
course, found ample Scripture to prove Salem women should not wear
veils, and so here in this New World, as in the Holland sojourn, the
head-covering of the mothers rent in twain the meetings of the fathers,
while the women wore veils or no veils, French hoods or beaver hats, in
despite of Paul’s opinions and their husbands’ constructions of his
opinions.
An excellent description of the Puritan women of a dissenting
congregation is in _Hudibras Redivivus;_ it reads:—
“The good old dames among the rest
Were all most primitively drest
In stiffen-bodyed russet gowns
And on their heads old steeple crowns
With pristine pinners next their faces
Edged round with ancient scallop-laces,
Such as, my antiquary says,
Were worn in old Queen Bess’s days,
In ruffs; and fifty other ways
Their wrinkled necks were covered o’er
With whisks of lawn by granmarms wore.”
The “old steeple crowns” over “pristine pinners” were not peculiar to
the Puritans. There was a time, in the first years of the seventeenth
century, when many Englishwomen wore steeple-crowned hats with costly
hatbands. We find them in pictures of women of the court, as well as
upon the heads of Puritans. I have a dozen prints and portraits of
Englishwomen in rich dress with these hats. The Quaker Tub-preacher,
shown here, wears one. Perhaps the best known example to Americans may
be seen in the portrait of Pocahontas here.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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