Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
Doubtless many have formed their notion of Puritan dress from the
imaginary pictures of several popular modern artists. It can plainly be
seen by any one who examines the portraits in this book that they are
little like these modern representations. The single figures called
“Priscilla” and “Rose Standish” are well known. The former is the
better in costume, and could the close dark cloth or velvet hood with
turned-back band, and plain linen edge displayed beneath, be exchanged
for the horseshoe shaped French hood which was then and many years
later the universal head-wear, the verisimilitude would be increased.
This hood is shown on the portraits of Madam Rawson, Madam Stoddard,
Mistress Paddy, and others in this book. Rose Standish’s cap is a very
pretty one, much prettier than the French hood, but I do not find it
like any cap in English portraits of that day. Nor have I seen her
picturesque sash. I do not deny the existence in portraits of 1620 of
this cap and sash; I simply say that I have never found them myself in
the hundreds of English portraits, effigies, etc., that I have
examined.
It will be noted that the women in the modern pictures all wear aprons.
I think this is correct as they are drawn in their everyday dress, but
it will be noted that none of these portraits display an apron; nor was
an apron part of any rich dress in the seventeenth century. The reign
of the apron had been in the sixteenth century, and it came in again
with Anne. Of course every woman in Massachusetts used aprons.
Early inventories of the effects of emigrant dames contain many an item
of those housewifely garments. Jane Humphreys, of Dorchester,
Massachusetts, had in her good wardrobe, in 1668, “2 Blew aprons, A
White Holland Apron with a Small Lace at the bottom. A White Holland
Apron with two breathes in it. My best white apron. My greene apron.”
In the pictures, _The Return of the Mayflower_ and _The Pilgrim
Exiles_, the masculine dress therein displayed is very close to that of
the real men of the times. The great power of these pictures is, after
all, not in the dress, but in the expression of the faces. The artist
has portrayed the very spirit of pure religious feeling, self-denial,
home-longing, and sadness of exile which we know must have been
imprinted on those faces.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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