Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
This virago-sleeve was worn by women of all ages and by children, both
boys and girls. A virago-sleeve is worn by Rebecca Rawson (here), and
by Mrs. Simeon Stoddard (here), by Madam Padishal and by her little
girl, and by the Gibbes child shown later in the book.
A carved figure of Anne Stotevill (1631) is in Westminster Abbey. Her
dress is a rich gown slightly open in front at the foot. It has
ornamental hooks, or frogs, with a button at each end—these are in
groups of three, from chin to toe. Four groups of three frogs each, on
both sides, make twenty-four, thus giving forty-eight buttons. A stiff
ruff is at the neck, and similar smaller ones at the wrist. She wears a
French hood with a loose scarf over it. She has a very graceful
virago-sleeve with handsome knots of ribbon.
It is certain that men’s sleeves and women’s sleeves kept ever close
company. Neither followed the other; they walked abreast. If a woman’s
sleeves were broad and scalloped, so was the man’s. If the man had a
tight and narrow sleeve, so did his wife. When women had
virago-sleeves, so did men. Even in the nineteenth century, at the
first coming of leg-of-mutton sleeves in 1830 _et seq_., dandies’
sleeves were gathered full at the armhole. In the second reign of these
vast sleeves a few years ago, man had emancipated himself from the
reign of woman’s fashions, and his sleeves remained severely plain.
Small invoices of fashionable clothing were constantly being sent
across seas. There were sent to and from England and other countries
“ventures,” which were either small lots of goods sent on speculation
to be sold in the New World, or a small sum given by a private
individual as a “venture,” with instructions to purchase abroad
anything of interest or value that was salable. To take charge of these
petty commercial transactions, there existed an officer, now obsolete,
known as a supercargo. It is told that one Providence ship went out
with the ventures of one hundred and fifty neighbors on board—that is,
one hundred and fifty persons had some money or property at stake on
the trip. Three hundred ventures were placed with another supercargo.
Sometimes women sent sage from their gardens, or ginseng if they could
get it. A bunch of sage paid in China for a porcelain tea-set. Along
the coast, women ventured food-supplies,—cheese, eggs, butter, dried
apples, pickles, even hard gingerbread; another sent a barrel of cider
vinegar. Clothes in small lots were constantly being bought and sold on
a venture. From London, in November, 1667, Walter Banesely sent as a
venture to William Pitkin in Hartford these articles of clothing with
their prices:—
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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