Dana, Richard Henry, 1815-1882; Sailors; Seafaring life; Voyages and travels
The bay of Monterey is very wide at the entrance, being about
twenty-four miles between the two points, Año Nuevo at the north, and
Pinos at the south, but narrows gradually as you approach the town,
which is situated in a bend, or large cove, at the south-eastern
extremity, and about eighteen miles from the points, which makes the
whole depth of the bay. The shores are extremely well wooded, (the
pine abounding upon them,) and as it was now the rainy season,
everything was as green as nature could make it,--the grass, the
leaves, and all; the birds were singing in the woods, and great numbers
of wild-fowl were flying over our heads. Here we could lie safe from
the south-easters. We came to anchor within two cable lengths of the
shore, and the town lay directly before us, making a very pretty
appearance; its houses being plastered, which gives a much better
effect than those of Santa Barbara, which are of a mud-color. The red
tiles, too, on the roofs, contrasted well with the white plastered
sides and with the extreme greenness of the lawn upon which the
houses--about an hundred in number--were dotted about, here and there,
irregularly. There are in this place, and in every other town which I
saw in California, no streets, or fences, (except here and there a
small patch was fenced in for a garden,) so that the houses are placed
at random upon the green, which, as they are of one story and of the
cottage form, gives them a pretty effect when seen from a little
distance.
It was a fine Saturday afternoon when we came to anchor, the sun about
an hour high, and everything looking pleasantly. The Mexican flag was
flying from the little square Presidio, and the drums and trumpets of
the soldiers, who were out on parade, sounded over the water, and gave
great life to the scene. Every one was delighted with the appearance
of things. We felt as though we had got into a Christian (which in the
sailor's vocabulary means civilized) country. The first impression
which California had made upon us was very disagreeable:--the open
roadstead of Santa Barbara; anchoring three miles from the shore;
running out to sea before every south-easter; landing in a high surf;
with a little dark-looking town, a mile from the beach; and not a sound
to be heard, or anything to be seen, but Sandwich Islanders, hides, and
tallow-bags. Add to this the gale off Point Conception, and no one can
be at a loss to account for our agreeable disappointment in Monterey.
Beside all this, we soon learned, which was of no small importance to
us, that there was little or no surf here, and this afternoon the beach
was as smooth as a duck-pond.
We landed the agent and passengers, and found several persons waiting
for them on the beach, among whom were some, who, though dressed in the
costume of the country, spoke English; and who, we afterwards learned,
were English and Americans who had married and settled in the country.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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