Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
On the third day Bourbaki came back, a little tired, but evidently
satisfied. Some of his friends accompanied him, and he brought word
that the chief had given permission for a few boys to enlist, but
that we would have to wait about ten days until he could come to
the shore himself. Not wishing to spend the ten days there, doing
absolutely nothing, we decided to go farther south, to Tesbel Bay,
and try our luck at recruiting there, as we had another boy, Macao,
from that district. George gave leave to Bourbaki, who had been
somewhat savage these last days, to stay at home till our return, and
he seemed delighted to have a holiday. We were all the more surprised
when, just before we weighed anchor, Bourbaki came back, shaking hands
without a word. We were quite touched by this remarkable sign of his
affection, pardoned his many objectionable ways, and never thought
that perhaps he might have ample reason not to feel altogether safe
and comfortable at home.
The wind being contrary, we had to tack about all night long without
advancing. Squalls rushed over the water, and then, again, the breeze
died down completely, only black, jagged clouds drifted westward
across the sky, and here and there a few stars were visible. The
cutter's deck was crowded with stuff, and there seemed less room for
us than ever, except in the hateful cabin. The boys sang monotonously
"for wind," quite convinced that the next breeze would be due to their
efforts. A fat old man sang all night long in falsetto in three notes;
it was unbearably silly and irritating, yet one could hardly stop the
poor devil and rob him of his only pleasure in that dark night. We
felt damp, restless and sleepless, and tried in vain to find some
comfort. Next evening we reached the entrance of Tesbel Bay, and
the wind having died down, we had to work our way in with the oars,
a slow and hard task. Bourbaki yelled and pulled at the oars with
all his might, encouraging the others. These are the joys of sailing.
Tesbel Bay is framed on two sides by high cliffs. Big boulders
lie in picturesque confusion where the surf foams white against
the narrow beach. Wherever there is a foot of ground, luxurious
vegetation thrives. Ahead of us lies a level valley that stretches
far inland to the foot of a high mountain, whose head is lost in grey
clouds. A little creek runs into the bay through high reed-grass,
behind a sandbank. Just before setting, the sun shone through the
clouds and smiled on the lovely, peaceful landscape, seeming to
promise us a pleasant stay. The smoke of many village fires rose
out of the bush at a distance. Two ragged natives were loafing on
the beach, and I engaged one of them for the next day, to guide me
to some villages. Bourbaki and Macao marched gaily off, as they were
to spend the night in Macao's village.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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