The two sides of our great sprawling continent, the East and West,
differ from each other almost as much as day differs from night. On the
coast of southern California the dominant impression made upon one is of
a world made up of three elements--sun, sea, and sky. The Pacific
stretches away to the horizon like a vast, shining, gently undulating
floor. Its waves are longer and come in more languidly than they do upon
the Atlantic coast. It justifies its name. The passion and fury of the
Eastern seas I got no hint of, even in winter. Its rocks, all that I saw
of them, are soft and friable. The languid waves rapidly wear them down.
They are non-strenuous rocks, lifted up out of a non-strenuous sea. The
mountains that tower four or five thousand feet along the coast are of
the same character. They are young, and while they carry their heads
very high, they are soft and easily disintegrated compared with the
granite of our coast.
As a rule, young mountains always wear the look of age, from their deep
lines and jagged and angular character, while the really old mountains
wear the look of youth from their comparative smoothness, their
unwrinkled appearance, their long, flowing lines. Time has taken the
conceit all out of them.
The annual rainfall in the Far West is only about one third of what it
is on the eastern side of the continent. And the soil is curiously
adapted to the climate. Trees flourish and crops are grown there under
arid conditions that would kill every green thing on the Atlantic
seaboard. The soil is clay tempered with a little sand, probably less
than ten per cent of it by weight is sand. I washed the clay out of a
large lump of it and found the sand a curious heterogeneous mixture of
small and large, light and dark grains of all possible forms. The soil
does not bake as do our clay soils, and keeps moist when ours would
almost defy the plough. Under cultivation it works up into a good
tillable condition. Its capacity to retain moisture is remarkable, as if
it were made for a scant rainfall. As a crop-producing soil, it has
virtues which I am at a loss to account for. Root vegetables grown here
have a sweetness, and above all, a tenderness, of which we know nothing
in the East. Much sunshine in our climate makes root vegetables fibrous
and tough.
I more than half believe that the wonderful sweetness of the bird songs
here, such as that of the meadowlark, is more or less a matter of
climate; the quality of the sunshine seems to have affected their vocal
cords. The clear, piercing, shaft-like note of our meadowlark contrasts
with that of the Pacific variety as our hard, brilliant blue skies
contrast with the softer and tenderer skies of this sun-blessed land.
II. LAWN BIRDS
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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