Hunting -- Spain; Natural history -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel
Thus, wherever they congregate in their thousands and tens of thousands,
wildfowl are always in view--that is, to those who seek them out in
their solitudes. This last, however, is an important proviso. For the
haunts aforesaid are precisely those areas of the earth's surface which
are the most repugnant to man, and least suited to his existence.
In crowded England there survive but few of those dreary estuaries
where miles of oozy mud-flats separate sea and land, treacherous of
foot-hold, exposed to tide-ways and to every gale that blows. Such only
are the haunts of British wildfowl, though how many men in a million
have ever seen them? To wilder Spain, with its 50 per cent of waste, and
its vast irreclaimed marismas, come the web-footed race in quantities
undreamt at home.
We have before attempted to describe such scenes, though a fear that we
might be discredited oft half paralysed the pen. An American critic of
our former book remarked that it "left the gaping reader with a feeling
that he had not been told half." That lurking fear could not be better
explained. A dread of Munchausenism verily gives pause in writing even
of what one has seen again and again, raising doubts of one's own
eyesight and of the pencilled notes that, year after year, we had
scrupulously written down on the spot.
The Baetican marisma has afforded many of those scenes of wild-life
that, for the reason stated, were before but half-described. With fuller
experience we return to the subject, though daring not entirely to
satisfy our trans-Atlantic friend.
The winter of 1896 provided such an occasion. It was on the 26th of
November that, under summer conditions, we rode out, where in other
years we have sailed, across what should have been water, but was now a
calcined plain.
November was nearly past; autumn had given place to winter, yet not a
drop of rain had fallen. Since the scorching days of July the fountains
of heaven had been stayed, and now the winter wildfowl from the north
had poured in only to find the marisma as hard and arid as the deserts
of Arabia Petraea. Instinct was at fault. True, each to their appointed
seasons, had come, the dark clouds of pintail, teal, and wigeon, the
long skeins of grey geese. Where in other years they had revelled in
shallows rich in aquatic vegetation, now the travellers find instead
nought but torrid plains devoid of all that is attractive to the tastes
of their tribe. For the parched soil, whose life-blood has been drained
by the heats of the summer solstice, whose plant-life is burnt up, has
remained panting all the autumn through for that precious moisture that
still comes not. The carcases of horses and cattle, that have died from
thirst and lack of pasturage, strew the plains; the winter-sown wheat is
dead ere germination is complete.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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