When you are tired of sitting quietly in this “veriest home of peace,”
go across the courtyard to the hall of the Inn and look at the carved
oaken roof and the grotesque ornaments, at the Grinling Gibbons
clock-case and the old stained glass windows, and before you leave
Staple Inn go through the second court and look at the old sunk garden
that is so unconcernedly green in the very heart of this big city. At
the back of the Patent Offices that make the southern boundary of
Staple Inn is Took’s Court--the Cook’s Court where Mr. Snagsby of _Bleak
House_ lived--once a place of those curious semi-prisons called
sponging-houses that were like debtors’ boarding-houses with the bailiff
for the landlord.
[Illustration: Staple Inn]
Took’s Court is a sordid enough place now, and some of it may soon
disappear, but it has a vicarious interest because Sheridan spent some
of the last years of his life in a sponging-house here.
GRAY’S INN
“Whene’er through Gray’s Inn porch I stray
I meet a spirit by the way;
I roam beneath the ancient trees,
And talk with him of mysteries;
He tells me truly what I am--
I walk with mighty Verulam.”
Gray’s Inn, another of the gracious, leisurely London corners that few
of London’s visitors discover, lies to the north of Holborn in the
Gray’s Inn Road. Any of the buses along Holborn will take you there, and
it is only a few minutes’ walk behind Chancery Lane Station on the
Central London Railway. You could once wander in the old gardens more
freely than in the other Inns, and if you slipped his _Essays_ in your
pocket could read what Sir Francis Bacon wrote about gardens in the very
garden that he made. Bacon was once Treasurer of Gray’s Inn and he
interested himself in the laying out of “the purest of human pleasures”
that he found there. Gray’s Inn Gardens used to be as fashionable a
place for a walk as Hyde Park is to-day. Pepys the Chatterer related the
doings of numberless people when he wrote: “When church was done my wife
and I walked to Gray’s Inn to observe fashions of the ladies, because of
my wife’s making some clothes.” Pepys must have gone there very often,
for two months later the frivolous Secretary wrote: “I was very well
pleased with the sight of a fine lady that I have often seen walk in
Gray’s Inn Walks.”
Times have changed and fine ladies are no longer allowed to walk in
Gray’s Inn Gardens, unless indeed they have relations among the benchers
who are complaisant in the matter of keys.
[Illustration: GRAY’S INN HALL]
The Hall is the oldest and most beautiful thing in Gray’s Inn. Queen
Elizabeth once came to a banquet here, and it was here that the _Comedy
of Errors_ was first performed. The old Inn has had many famous names
among its members, the Sydneys, Cecils, Bacons, etc., and a man no less
distinguished in another circle, Jacob Tonson, had his first bookshop
just inside Gray’s Inn Gate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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