Besides all this there are wonderful Flemish wood carvings and
manuscripts, and, in the crypt, the interesting three-thousand-year-old
tomb of Seti I., King of Egypt, whose inscriptions Sir John did not live
to see deciphered.
There was an air of wistfulness about the place. It had been arranged
with so much loving care, and so few people profit by it though the
reward of going is great.
Perhaps Sir John Soane did not want anybody but art-lovers to see his
collection, or he would surely not have closed it to the public on
Saturday, Sunday and Monday all the year round and for the entire months
of September, December, January and February. It is true that students
and other visitors may apply to the curator for admission at other
times, and foreigners are admitted on presentation of their visiting
card on any day except Sunday and Bank Holidays, but what Londoner, with
richer collections open every day in the week, could be expected to
remember the capriciousness of the guardians of Sir John Soane’s
treasures, who are like the suburban hostess announcing her reception
days as first and third Tuesdays and fifth Friday? In despair of
remembering when the good lady was at home, you would never call on her.
No, if you want to see the Hogarths, my advice is to wrap yourself in
the cloak of a foreigner and present your card at the door of this
neglected London museum between the hours of ten and five.
LINCOLN’S INN
“The Walks of Lincoln’s Inn
Under the Elms.”
BEN JONSON.
Lincoln’s Inn Fields are bordered on the east side by Lincoln’s Inn, but
I like better to approach the old squares by the brick gatehouse in
Chancery Lane. It is the oldest part of Lincoln’s Inn, and a very fine
example of Tudor brickwork. The Sir Thomas Lovel who built it in 1518
put his own arms over the gateway, never dreaming that when his name
would mean nothing to the passer-by, the name of a bricklayer, one Ben
Jonson who worked, with a trowel in one hand and a book in the other, at
the adjoining buildings about a hundred years later, would need no coat
of arms to preserve his memory. People like Mr. Muirhead, who see things
in the light of cold reason, argue that in 1617 Jonson was forty-four
and already famous, so he had probably laid down the trowel,--but I
prefer to believe old Fuller, who said Ben Jonson helped in the building
of the new structure in Lincoln’s Inn.
There are four of these old Inns of Court, that have lasted since the
thirteenth century--the Inner Temple, the Middle Temple, Lincoln’s Inn
and Gray’s Inn. Few visitors to London go out of their way to stroll in
their shady courtyards, but there are not many corners of London where
you can so easily shake off the oppression of the blare of machinery and
recapture the spirit of a time when the study of the law was not thought
incompatible with many pleasanter, more frivolous things.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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