Vacation days in GreeceRichardson, Rufus B. (Rufus Byam)
History
Vacation days in Greece
Richardson, Rufus B. (Rufus Byam)
Greece -- Description and travel
Our stalwart boy was equal to the emergency. Taking us one by one on
his back he bore us over, and then the parcels, spending nearly an
hour in the operation. The sight of a bearded gentleman being carried
pickapack across a rushing river by a boy whose footing could not be
very secure on the uneven river-bed, and who could not quite keep the
boots of his rider out of the water, is a very ridiculous one to a
bystander; but as each one's turn came it became a serious event to him.
When we were all well over, we noticed that the faithful horse had
followed his master, and got across also. By his help we easily made
the half mile to Basiliko, where our man from Eretria was still waiting
for us; and that night we spent at Eretria, ready to inaugurate what
proved to be most interesting and successful excavations on the site of
that city on which the storm of Persian vengeance fell before it was
scattered at Marathon.
We had a most unusual March. At one time snow lay on the ground a
foot deep for three days. But we excavated the greater part of the
ancient theatre and many interesting graves, besides mapping out the
walls of the city. In subsequent years we took up the work again, and
uncovered the old gymnasium and a temple of Dionysos near the theatre,
but we stopped too soon; after us the Greeks took up the work, and
achieved results that nearly overshadowed ours. But ours will ever be
the service of having uncovered one of the most interesting theatres
of Greece, and a real Greek gymnasium, which is a rare thing, inasmuch
as most gymnasia which are preserved to us are Roman modifications of
the original Greek form. More than this, we forever laid the idea, up
to that time so prevalent, that the Eretria which was destroyed by the
Persians was several miles to the east of this. The acropolis walls
did that; but it was the service of the Greek excavator to uncover
the temple of Apollo, with its archaic gable sculptures, and to find
a considerable quantity of large vases of the sixth century before
Christ, and thus to corroborate the testimony of the walls. There was,
in fact, no other such place for a commanding acropolis on the whole
stretch of shore as on the hill rising above the theatre. Any city
established further east would have deserved the name of "the city of
the blind."
TAYGETOS AND KITHÆRON
If the coupling of these two names seems forced, my first reason for
it is the purely formal one that ten days after being on the summit of
Taygetos, we were climbing Kithæron. Greece is such a small country
that to traverse it from end to end in ten days, and see Sparta, Argos,
and Thebes, with some mountain climbing thrown in, is nothing that
justifies a boastful feeling; but when, at the end of such a journey,
one reflects upon the history and mythology which is attached to these
names, and calls up the scenes enacted on the plains on which he looks
down from these mountains, he wonders at what he has accomplished.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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