Europe -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
I suppose that a man or nation is to be congratulated about whom their
neighbours have nothing to say. If so, the position of England at this
time is peculiarly enviable out here. I read the _Indépendance Belge_
diligently, but under the head “Nouvelles d’Angleterre,” for which that
journal retains, as it would seem, a special correspondent, I never
learn anything whatever except the price of funds. We occupy an average
of perhaps twelve lines in its columns, and none at all in those of the
_La Vigie de la Côte_, the special production of Blankenberghe, or of
the Bruges and Ostend journals.
Oh! wad some power the giftie gie us,
To see oursels as ithers see us!
Certainly a short residence at Blankenberghe should be taken in
conjunction with the volume of essays on international policy by Mr.
Congreve and his fellow Comtists, which I happen to have brought with
me for deliberate perusal, if one wants to feel the shine taken out of
one’s native land. I don’t.
Belgian Boats
Blankenberghe has one branch of native industry, and one only. From
time immemorial it has been a fishing station. The local paper declares
that there has been no change in the boats, the costumes, or the
implements of this industry since the sixteenth century, with the
exception noticed below. One can quite believe it, as far as the boats
are concerned. They are very strongly built tubs, ranging from twenty to
thirty tons, flat-bottomed, the same breadth of beam fore and aft, built
I should think on the model of the first duck which was seen off this
coast, and a most sensible model too. They have no bowsprit, but a short
foremast in the bows, carrying one small sail, and a strong mainmast
amidships, carrying one big sail. Each of these sails is run up by a
single rope, rigged through a pulley in the top of the masts, and of
other rigging there is none. The boats are all of a uniform russet-brown
colour, the tint of old age, looking as if they had been once varnished,
in the time, let us say, of William the Silent, and had never been
touched since. There is not a scrap of paint on the whole fleet. In
short, I am convinced that the local paper by no means exaggerates their
antiquity. Instead of finding it hard to believe that sixteenth-century
men went to sea in them, I should not be startled to hear that our first
parents were the original proprietors, or at any rate that the present
fleet was laid down by Japhet, when the Ark was broken up. The habits of
the fleet are as quaint as their looks. There is no scrap of anchorage
or shelter of any kind here, the sands lie perfectly open to the north
and west, and the surf seems about as rough as it is elsewhere. But the
Blankenberghe fishermen are perfectly indifferent, convinced no doubt
that neither sea nor sand will do anything to hurt them or their boats,
for old acquaintance’ sake. To me, accustomed to the scrambling,
and shouting, and hauling up above high-water mark, the running of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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