Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
It was a bland and sunny afternoon. The suburban villages of Frankfurt
were waddling about in their Sunday best, the city itself was
promenading its less dowdy holiday attire along the wide, well-swept
streets. We brought up at a square overlooked by a superbly proportioned
bronze gentleman who had lost every stitch of his attire except his “tin
hat,” where we left the car and mingled with the throng. Passers-by
directed us courteously enough to the “Goethehaus.” Its door-bell handle
dangled loosely, as it had fifteen years before, but a sign informed us
that the place was closed on Sunday afternoons. The scattered crowd that
had paused to gaze at our strange uniforms told us to come next day, or
any other time than Sunday afternoon, and we should be admitted at once.
We did not take the trouble to explain how difficult it would be for us
to come another day. Instead, we strolled nonchalantly through the
thickening throng and fell in with the stream of promenaders along the
wide main street. There were four of us—Colonel—but never mind the name,
for this one happened to be a perfectly good colonel, and he may still
be in the army—and three other officers. We—or, more exactly, our
uniforms—attracted a decided attention. The majority stared at us
vacantly or with puzzled airs; now and then we saw some man of military
age whisper our identity to his companion. No one gave any indication of
a desire to molest us. Yet somehow the atmosphere about us was
considerably more tense than in Düsseldorf. Twice we heard a
“_verdammte_” behind us, but as one of them was followed by the word
“_Engländer_” it may have been nothing worse than a case of mistaken
identity. Still there was something in the air that whispered we had
best not prolong our call beyond the dictates of good taste.
The shop-windows were fully as well stocked as those of Cologne or
Coblenz; the strollers, on the whole, well dressed. Their faces, in the
expert opinion of the colonel, showed no more signs of malnutrition than
the average crowd of any large city. Here and there we passed a sturdy,
stern-faced sailor, a heavy Browning or Luger at his side, reminding us
that these men of the sea—or of the Kiel Canal—had taken over the police
duties in many centers. Otherwise nothing met the eye or ear that one
would not have seen in Frankfurt in days of peace.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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