Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
The second trip was a trifle more exciting, partly because we had no
permission to carry it as far as we did—playing hooky, which in the army
is pronounced “A. W. O. L.” keeps its zest all through life—partly
because we never knew at what moment the war-battered “Dodge” would fall
to bits beneath us, like the old one-horse shay, and leave us to
struggle back to our billets as best we could. It was a cold but
pleasant Sunday. Up the Rhine to Mainz nothing broke the rhythm of our
still robust motor except the M. P. at the old stone arch that separated
the American from the broad horizon-blue strip—the two journeys laid end
to end made one realize what an enormous chunk of Germany the armistice
gave the Allies. We halted, of course, at the cathedral of the French
headquarters to see the “Grablegung Christi (1492),” as every one
should, listened awhile to the whine of the pessimistic old sexton with
his, “Oh, such another war will come again in twenty years or so;
humanity is like that,” and sped on along a splendid highway to
Wiesbaden. The French were making the most of their stay in this garden
spot. They let no non-fraternizing orders interfere with enjoying the
best the Kurhaus restaurant or cellars, the magnificent, over-ornate
opera-house, the beautiful park, even the culture of the better class of
German visitors, afforded.
Our pass read Wiesbaden and return, but that would have made a tame day
of it. Rejuvenated of heart, if saddened of pocketbook, by the Kurhaus
luncheon, we rattled swiftly on to the eastward. In due time we began to
pass French outposts, indifferent to our passage at first, then growing
more and more inquisitive, until there came one which would not be put
off with a flip of the hand and a shouted “_Armée américaine_,” but
brought us to an abrupt stop with a long, slim bayonet that came
perilously near disrupting the even purr of our still sturdy motor. The
crucial moment had come. If the French guard could read our pass we were
due to turn back forthwith, chagrined and crestfallen. But none of us
had ever heard of a French guard who _could_ read an American pass, and
we presented it with that lofty assurance which only those have not
learned who wantonly wasted their time with the A. E. F. in France. The
sentry received the pass dubiously, as we expected him to; he looked it
over on both sides with an inwardly puzzled but an outwardly wise air,
as we knew he would; he called his corporal, as we had foreseen; the
corporal looked at the pass with the pretended wisdom of all his kind,
handed it back with a courteous “_Bien, messieurs_,” as we were certain
he would, and we sped on “into Germany.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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