Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
It was with difficulty that we found seats in the crowded café, large as
it was. A throng of men and women, somewhat less buoyant than similar
gatherings in Paris, was sipping beer and wine at the marble-topped
tables. A large orchestra played rather well in a corner. Seidels of
good beer cost us less than they would have in New York two years
before. The bourgeois gathering looked at us rather fixedly, a bit
languidly. I started to light a cigar, but could not find my matches. A
well-dressed man of middle age at the next table leaned over and lighted
it for me. Two youthful students in their gay-colored caps grinned at us
rather flippantly. A waiter hovered about us, bowing low and smirking a
bit fatuously whenever we spoke to him. There was no outward evidence to
show that we were among enemies. Still there was no wisdom in playing
too long with fire, once the initial pleasure of the game had worn off.
It would have been hard to explain to our own people how we came to be
in Frankfurt, even if nothing worse came of another demand for our
passes. Uncle Sam would never suffer for the loss of that “Dodge,” but
he would be quite apt to show extensive inquisitiveness to know who lost
it. The late afternoon promenade at the Kurhaus back in Wiesbaden was
said to be very interesting. We paid our reckoning, tipped our tip, and
wandered casually back to the square graced by the bronze young man
whose equipment had gone astray. To say that we were surprised to find
the car waiting where we had left it, the doughboy-chauffeur dozing in
his seat, would be putting it too strongly. But we were relieved.
The Kurhaus promenade was not what it was “cracked up to be,” at least
not that afternoon. But we may have been somewhat late. The opera,
beginning at six, was excellent, lacking something of the lightness of
the same performance in Paris, but outdoing it in some details, chiefly
in its mechanical effects. One looked in vain for any suggestion of
under-nourishment in the throng of buxom, “corn-fed” women and stodgy
men who crowded the house and the top-heavily decorated foyer during the
_entr’actes_. Frenchmen in uniform, from generals to _poilus_, gave
color to the rather somber audience and made no bones of “fraternizing”
with the civilians—particularly if she chanced to be beautiful, which
was seldom the case. American officers were numerous; there were
Englishmen, “Anzacs,” Belgians, Italians, and a Serb or two. The
after-theater dinner at the Kurhaus was sumptuous, except in one detail;
neither bribery nor pleading could win us the tiniest slice of the black
war-bread that was stintingly served to those with bread-tickets.
Otherwise “wine, women, and song” were as much in evidence as if war had
never come to trouble the worldly pleasures of Wiesbaden.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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