Vagabonding Through Changing GermanyFranck, Harry Alverson
History
Vagabonding Through Changing Germany
Franck, Harry Alverson
Germany -- Description and travel; Germany -- Social life and customs
There were, of course, the window displays of the closed shops, of
unfailing interest to any one long familiar only with warring lands. No
wonder these placid Dutchmen looked so full-cheeked and contented.
Though a tradesman may have found some things missing, to the casual eye
there were apparently none of the material good things of life that
could not be had in superabundance. Butter, eggs, cakes, bonbons, fat
bacon, meat of every species, sweets of all kinds, soap as good and as
cheap as before the war, cigarettes, cigars, and tobacco enough to have
set all France to rioting, all those little dainties which the gormands
of the belligerent countries had ceased even to sigh for, were here
tantalizingly spread out for block after block, street after street.
Restaurants ostentated menu-cards offering anything a hungry man could
pay for; milk was to be had every few yards at ten Dutch cents a glass.
One had something of the sensation that would come from seeing diamonds
and gold nuggets strewn along the way just around the corner from the
abode of a band of unsuccessful yeggmen. With the caution bred of
nineteen months in France I had filled the interstices of my baggage
with chocolate and cigars. It was like carrying gloves to Grenoble.
Nothing was more abundantly displayed in the windows of Rotterdam than
those two articles.
A closer inspection, however, showed that Holland had not entirely
escaped the secondary effects of the war. The milk that still sold so
cheaply showed a distinct evidence now of too close an alliance between
the herd and the pump. If the restaurants were fully supplied from
_hors-d’œuvre_ to coffee, the aftermath was a very serious shock to the
financial system. There seemed, moreover, to be no place where the
average rank and file of laboring humanity could get its wholesome fill
for a reasonable portion of its income. The bonbons were a trifle pasty;
the cigars not only as expensive as across the Atlantic—which means
manyfold more than the old Dutch prices—they were far more inviting
behind a plate-glass than when burning in front of the face. The
clothing that was offered in such abundance usually confessed frankly to
membership in the shoddy class. Suspenders and garters had all but lost
their elasticity; shoes—except the more popular Dutch variety—had soared
to the lofty realms to which all articles of leather have ascended the
world over. Bicycles, the Dutchman’s chief means of locomotion, however,
seemed as easily within reach as if the far-spread “rubber crisis” had
never discovered this corner of Europe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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