Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
Street vendors of all kinds swarmed in the piazza at
night--flower-girls of the most obliging natures, who, if you would
not buy their wares, would thrust a bouquet into your hand gratis (you
were, of course, supposed to repay them at some other time). There
were musicians of every sort and kind--some with guitars; others with
mandolines; some playing selections from the operas; others singing
"Funiculi" and "Santa Lucia" in high tenor voices; deep-chested,
bronze-faced men who explained that they were once operatic stars, but
were now reduced, by the injustice of managers and the villainous
tempers of the prima donnas, to street singing. There were men who
went about selling frosted fruits on long sticks, crying "Caramel,
caramel!" and giving descriptions of their wares in almost every
European language. People of all races were there--red-faced
Englishmen and fair women, with their rosy daughters in sailor hats,
on the way from Switzerland, the respectable English father explaining
St. Mark's with a comprehensive wave of the hand. There were
Frenchmen, Americans, Austrians, Italians, either talking volubly or
deadly quiet; Greeks, with long bluish-black hair floating out behind
them, and caps with silk top-knots (these were captains of small
vessels coming from Cyprus and Syria, and they went to the Café della
Costanza, where they could procure mocha and the pipe they loved
best); and young Venetian gentlemen who spent their lives for the most
part in drifting from one café to another, generally handsome,
well-dressed men with immaculate linen and pointed beards carefully
cut, carrying long canes, and the lightest of kid gloves (their main
object seemed to be to stare at all the pretty women); and Austrians,
smart, good-natured people, who frequented their own cafés, with much
talk and laughter and rattling of swords. Now and then one saw
Venetian women of the upper classes on the piazza, but very rarely.
They were extremely indolent and lazy, and seldom went out. The
weather, they would tell you, was never sufficiently fine: there was
too much sun, or a sirocco was coming, or a cloud threatened rain: the
slightest thing deterred them. Often the utmost exertion a Venetian
woman would allow herself in the day was to pass from her sofa to her
balcony to breathe the freshness of the flowers. Consequently, she had
a complexion which was extremely delicate, a sort of pearly whiteness.
Sometimes she would take a turn or two in the piazza with her husband
or brother as cavalier, and languidly sip anise and water at the Café
Florian.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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