Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
Turn, on a sunny day, from the Molo towards San Marco, passing below
the portico of the Ducal Palace adjoining the Piazzetta. Framed by the
pointed arch at the end is a portion of the wall which once formed
the west tower of the Ducal Palace. This delicate harmony of coloured
marbles and sculptured stone seems a rare and beautiful creation, not
of stone but of something more plastic, more mobile, so responsive is
it to the light, so luminous, so full of feeling. As we draw nearer and
it becomes more clearly defined, we see great slabs of marble sawn and
spread open like the pages of a book, corresponding in pattern as the
veining of a leaf. They are linked by marble rope-work, and between
them are inserted smaller slabs of delicately sculptured stone and a
wonderful coil of mosaic. It is a veritable patchwork wall, but no
less beautiful in its effect of harmony than in its details--the four
porphyry figures of embracing kings its corner-stone. This wall is
truly a key to the fabric of the church itself; it is like a window
into St. Mark’s, that treasury of Eastern spoil; the East is in every
vein, in every heart-beat of it. The spoil of the temples of ancient
gods furnished forth the Church of San Marco as it furnished the saint
himself. In this one angle we have cipollino and porphyry, serpentine
and verd-antico, marmo greco and eastern mosaic, pillars of granite
profound and glittering, breccia africana and paonazetto. The weight
of centuries is upon it all; ages of lives have gone to its making,
and it came to Venice only when generations had passed over its head.
For the human race it has never been but old; the mind loses itself in
speculation on that stupendous past that lies between us and the time
when stone was not. And yet how strangely through that long, enchanted
silence, when the centuries were endowing it with an immensity of
strength and hardness and endurance for which we have no word of
parallel but in its own nature, it has kept the similitude and mobility
of life, at once withholding and revealing the riches of its beauty.
How can we wonder that da Contarini, the strange and learned dreamer
of the Cinquecento, burst out into a rapture of mystic joy in the
presence of San Marco, “that golden church, built by the eternal gods,
of our protector, Messer San Marco”? He celebrates the pinnacles and
shining columns, the throng of glittering figures that burn like golden
spirits in the sunlight, the sculptured marbles polished with soft
Ethiopian sand. “It might be said that it has been gathered together
from all parts of the world.” He then proceeds to seek among the
marbles of San Marco those mysterious correspondences which the wonder
of men has always felt to exist between human nature and the nature of
the stone; he loses himself in contemplation of one after another of
the precious marbles that in wide surface or minute mosaic form the
priceless garment of St. Mark’s temple: diaspro, which must be seen in
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account