Views of nature: or Contemplations on the sublime phenomena of creation: with scientific illustrationsHumboldt, Alexander von
Science
Views of nature: or Contemplations on the sublime phenomena of creation: with scientific illustrations
Humboldt, Alexander von
Physical geography; Plant morphology; Science; South America -- Description and travel
The rocks which give rise to the cataracts of the Columbia at the
point where the river breaks through the chain, mark the prolongation
of the Sierra Nevada of California from the 44th to the 47th degree of
latitude.[V] In this northern prolongation of the chain lie the three
colossal elevations of Mount Jefferson, Mount Hood, and Mount St.
Helen’s, which rise 14,540 Parisian (or 15,500 English) feet above the
sea-level. The height of this coast chain or range far exceeds
therefore that of the Rocky Mountains. “During an eight months’
journey along these maritime Alps,” says Captain Frémont,[W] “we were
constantly within sight of snow-covered summits; and while we were
able to cross the Rocky Mountains through the South Pass at an
elevation of 7027 feet, we found that the passes in the maritime
range, which is divided into several parallel chains, were more than
2000 feet higher”—and therefore only 1170 (English) feet below the
summit of Mount Etna. It is also a very remarkable fact, and one which
reminds us of the relations of the eastern and western Cordilleras of
Chili, that volcanoes still active are only found in the Californian
chain which lies in the closest proximity to the sea. The conical
mountains of Regnier and of St. Helen’s are almost invariably observed
to emit smoke; and on the 23rd of November, 1843, the latter of these
volcanoes erupted a mass of ashes which covered the shores of the
Columbia for a distance of forty miles, like a fall of snow. To the
volcanic Californian chain belong also in the far north of Russian
America, Mount Elias (according to La Pérouse 1980 toises, or 12,660
feet, and according to Malaspina 2792 toises, or 17,850 feet in
height), and Mount Fair Weather (Cerro de Buen Tiempo, 2304 toises, or
14,733 feet high). Both these conical mountains are regarded as still
active volcanoes. Frémont’s expedition, which has proved alike useful
in reference to botany and geognosy, likewise collected volcanic
products in the Rocky Mountains (as scoriaceous basalt, trachyte, and
true obsidian), and discovered an old extinct crater somewhat to the
east of Fort Hall (43° 2′ north lat., and 112° 28′ west long.), but no
traces of any still active volcanoes emitting lava and ashes, were to
be met with. We must not confound with these the hitherto unexplained
phenomenon termed _smoking hills_, _côtes brûlées_, and _terrains
ardens_, in the language of the English settlers and the natives who
speak French. “Rows of low conical hills,” says the accurate observer
M. Nicollet, “are almost periodically, and sometimes for two or three
years continually, covered with dense black smoke, unaccompanied by
any visible flames. This phenomenon is more particularly noticed in
the territory of the Upper Missouri, and still nearer to the eastern
declivity of the Rocky Mountains, where there is a river named by the
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