Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian NorthPfeiffer, Ida
History
Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian North
Pfeiffer, Ida
Iceland -- Description and travel; Old Norse poetry -- History and criticism; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
At first the road lay between masses of lava, where it certainly was not
easy to ride; then over flats and small acclivities, from whence we could
descry the immense plain in which are situated Havenfiord, Bassastadt,
Reikjavik, and other places. Bassastadt, a town built on a promontory
jutting out into the sea, contains one of the principal schools, a church
built of masonry, and a few cottages. The town of Reikjavik cannot be
seen, as it is hidden behind a hill. The other places consist chiefly of
a few cottages, and only meet the eye of the traveller when he approaches
them nearly. Several chains of mountains, towering one above the other,
and sundry "Jokuls," or glaciers, which lay still sparkling in their
wintry garb, surround this interminable plain, which is only open at one
end, towards the sea. Some of the plains and hills shone with tender
green, and I fancied I beheld beautiful meadows. On a nearer inspection,
however, they proved to be swampy places, and hundreds upon hundreds of
little acclivities, sometimes resembling mole-hills, at others small
graves, and covered with grass and moss.
I could see over an area of at least thirty or forty miles, and yet could
not descry a tree or a shrub, a bit of meadow-land or a friendly village.
Every thing seemed dead. A few cottages lay scattered here and there; at
long intervals a bird would hover in the air, and still more seldom I
heard the kindly greeting of a passing inhabitant. Heaps of lava,
swamps, and turf-bogs surrounded me on all sides; in all the vast expanse
not a spot was to be seen through which a plough could be driven.
After riding more than four miles, I reached a hill, from which I could
see Reikjavik, the chief harbour, and, in fact, the only town on the
island. But I was deceived in my expectations; the place before me was a
mere village.
The distance from Havenfiord to Reikjavik is scarcely nine miles; but as
I was unwilling to tire my good old guide, I took three hours to
accomplish it. The road was, generally speaking, very good, excepting in
some places, where it lay over heaps of lava. Of the much-dreaded dizzy
abysses I saw nothing; the startling term must have been used to
designate some unimportant declivities, along the brow of which I rode,
in sight of the sea; or perhaps the "abysses" were on the lava-fields,
where I sometimes noticed small chasms of fifteen or sixteen feet in
depth at the most.
Shortly after eight o'clock in the evening I was fortunate enough to
reach Reikjavik safe and well. Through the kind forethought of Herr
Knudson, a neat little room had been prepared for me in one of his houses
occupied by the family of the worthy baker Bernhoft, and truly I could
not have been better received any where.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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