Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian NorthPfeiffer, Ida
History
Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian North
Pfeiffer, Ida
Iceland -- Description and travel; Old Norse poetry -- History and criticism; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
Two or three cottages situated near each other are here dignified by the
name of a "place." These places, as well as the separate cottages, are
mostly built on little acclivities, surrounded by meadows. The meadows
are often fenced in with walls of stone or earth, two or three feet in
height, to prevent the cows, sheep, and horses from trespassing upon them
to graze. The grass of these meadows is made into hay, and laid up as a
winter provision for the cows.
I did not hear many complaints of the severity of the cold in winter; the
temperature seldom sinks to twenty degrees below zero; the sea is
sometimes frozen, but only a few feet from the shore. The snowstorms and
tempests, however, are often so violent, that it is almost impossible to
leave the house. Daylight lasts only for five or six hours, and to
supply its place the poor Icelanders have only the northern light, which
is said to illumine the long nights with a brilliancy truly marvellous.
The summer I passed in Iceland was one of the finest the inhabitants had
known for years. During the month of June the thermometer often rose at
noon to twenty degrees. The inhabitants found this heat so
insupportable, that they complained of being unable to work or to go on
messages during the day-time. On such warm days they would only begin
their hay-making in the evening, and continued their work half the night.
The changes in the weather are very remarkable. Twenty degrees of heat
on one day would be followed by rain on the next, with a temperature of
only five degrees; and on the 5th of June, at eight o'clock in the
morning, the thermometer stood at one degree below zero. It is also
curious that thunderstorms happen in Iceland in winter, and are said
never to occur during the summer.
From the 16th or 18th of June to the end of the month there is no night.
The sun appears only to retire for a short time behind a mountain, and
forms sunset and morning-dawn at the same time. As on one side the last
beam fades away, the orb of day re-appears at the opposite one with
redoubled splendour.
During my stay in Iceland, from the 15th of May to the 29th of July, I
never retired to rest before eleven o'clock at night, and never required
a candle. In May, and also in the latter portion of the month of July,
there was twilight for an hour or two, but it never became quite dark.
Even during the last days of my stay, I could read until half-past ten
o'clock. At first it appeared strange to me to go to bed in broad
daylight; but I soon accustomed myself to it, and when eleven o'clock
came, no sunlight was powerful enough to cheat me of my sleep. I found
much pleasure in walking at night, at past ten o'clock, not in the pale
moonshine, but in the broad blaze of the sun.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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