We shall not explore Portobello further, but turn to the left, and
follow the road that runs parallel to the railway to Leith. On one
side of us is the sea, breaking on a narrow, shingly beach; and
beyond, there is nothing to stop the eye till it reaches the distant
shores of Fife, but the rugged outline of Inchkeith, with its lines
of fortification gleaming white in the sunlight. Before we have gone
very far, we see a level crossing and a signal-box on the railway
beside us; and, taking advantage of our privileges as pedestrians,
we pass safely and unquestioned through the narrow posterns, while
it might require some persuasion to get the heavy gates unlocked and
opened for a carriage to enter them. We now find ourselves following
a straight path leading across the flat green meadows, which stretch
far away on either side, their expanse being only broken by narrow
watercourses. With the level rays of the afternoon sun glancing
over them, gilding the tips of the grass, and imparting an air of
Dutch-like prosperity and peace, it comes upon one rather as a shock
to be told that these quiet pastures are the great sewage farm of
Edinburgh, an experiment on a large scale which has turned out
successfully. We presently come to high walls, behind which stands
the old house of Craigentinnie, long the inheritance of the Nisbets,
a younger branch of the Nisbets of Dean. As we have already said, it
was bought in the last century by the father of the late Mr. William
Miller. The latter added greatly to the house, and built steep roofs
and turrets in the style of a French château, which has altered it
very much from the old Scotch house that originally stood there.
We now come to the little village of Restalrig, or Lestalric, as
it used always to be called. For centuries it was famous all over
Scotland as the burial-place of the blessed virgin St. Triduana. "She
is said," writes Dr. Laing, "to have come from Achaia in the 4th
century in company with St. Regulus, and to have died at Restalrig in
the year 510, in the reign of Eugenius III., the 8th of October being
held as her festival day. Although no precise date can be assigned
when a church or chapel was first erected and dedicated to this
saint, whose bones for many centuries were held in high veneration,
or when it first became the parish church of Leith, we can trace it
back at least to the 12th century."[48]
[48] _Collegiate Churches of Midlothian._ Bannatyne Club, 1861.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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