Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
Corte is an inland city with a situation not less imposing than those
of the Corsican seaports. The panorama of brown hills in the midst of
which it lies, the citadel on an inaccessible and rugged crag, give the
town an air of iron defiance. Mountains rise on every side in the most
varied forms. To the north the heights are low, and mostly dome-shaped,
covered with copsewood, or fields of grain. The summer has clad these
hills in a dark brown, and the region thus wears an aspect of the utmost
sternness. They are the last spurs of the ranges that form the watershed
between the Golo and Tavignano, and separate two valleys, the pastoral
dale of Niolo, and the valley of the Tavignano. At the opening of the
latter, where the Tavignano is joined by the Restonica, lies Corte.
Three high and craggy hills command the entrance to this valley. Both
rivers have forced a channel for themselves through deep ravines, and
rush into one another over fragments of shattered cliffs. There is a
stone bridge over each.
The little city has only one main street, which is newly built, and
is called the Corso; an alley of elms gives it a singularly rural
appearance. And here too I was astonished at the lonely seclusion, the
idyllic stillness, that so peculiarly characterize the Corsican towns.
You really believe yourself in the farthest nook of the world, and cut
off from all connection with its ongoings.
The city is venerable from its associations with events in Corsican
history. In the time of Paoli it was the centre of his democratic
government, and in ancient times the residence of Moorish kings; it was
important in every period as the central point of the island, and as
possessing a fortress which frequently decided the course and issue of
a campaign.
The citadel has a singular appearance. It is the Acropolis of Corsica.
It stands on a black, steep, and rugged crag, which rises over the river
Tavignano. Walls, towers, the old town—which the citadel encloses—all
look black, ruinous, and desolate. They have been battered in a thousand
sieges. This castle of Corte has been assaulted and defended oftener
than Belgrade. The brave Vincentello d'Istria laid the foundations of
the present structure, in the beginning of the fifteenth century. The
loop-hole is still shown from which the Genoese suspended Gaffori's
son, to deter his father from continuing his cannonade of the fortress.
Enacting itself on and around this grim, giddy height, how wild must
have been that heroic scene! The action of Gaffori is one of the noblest
traits to be found in the range of Corsican history, which, as I have
already said, for every instance of magnanimity in Greeks and Romans,
can produce another no way inferior. The spirit that has animated this
Corsican people, has proved itself no less heroic than that which we
admire in Brutus and Timoleon; but the acts of national and individual
heroism which this spirit produced, have lain buried in the obscurity
of the period and the locality.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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