Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
Some gentlemen, whose agreeable acquaintance I made at the _table
d'hôte_ of my inn, among them an artist, the only Corsican painter with
whom I became acquainted on the island, took me to the marble quarries
in the vicinity of Corte. A quarry of this kind was discovered not
long ago in the rocks above the Restonica. The stone is of a bluish
colour, with reddish-white veins, and is available for architecture and
ornaments. We found the workmen occupied in getting a large block, of
which a pillar was to be made, down the hill. It was laid on rollers,
and shoved by means of the Archimedean screw to the edge of the incline,
at the foot of which the blocks are dressed. The large and beautiful
stone slid rapidly down, enveloping itself in a cloud of dust, and as it
forced its way onwards, rung clear as a bell. At the foot of the hill on
which this rich quarry lies, the Restonica turns a mill that cuts the
marble into plates. Seven days are required to cut a block into thirty
of these. In Corte, therefore, Seneca's assertion is now disproved—_non
pretiosus lapis hic cæditur_—here no costly stone is hewn. Speaking
generally, however, the philosopher's words are still applicable, for
Corsica's treasures of beautiful stone have remained dead capital.
CHAPTER III.
AMONG THE GOAT-HERDS OF MONTE ROTONDO.
————"tomo un puño de bellotas en la mano, y mirandolas atentamente
sotto la voz a semejantes razones: Dichosa edad y siglos dichosos
aquellos a quien los antiguos pusieron nombre de dorados."—DON
QUIXOTE.
I had formed the resolution of ascending the highest mountain in
Corsica, Monte Rotondo, which lies about half a day's journey to the
south-west of Corte, and may almost be considered as the middle point
of the island. Although the excursion was described to me as most
fatiguing, still I hoped to find a clear day and sufficient remuneration
for my trouble. But what I most of all wished was, some insight into
the still entirely primitive life of the herdsmen.
I hired a guide and a mule, and, provided with a little bread and some
calabashes of wine, early on the morning of the 28th of July I rode
into the hills. The road, a shepherd's track, never leaves the valley
of the wild Restonica, from its confluence with the Tavignano, close
by the town, up to the very summit of Monte Rotondo, where it has its
source. The bed of this beautiful mountain-stream, is, during most of
its course, a ravine of gloomy and impressive character. In the vicinity
of Corte, it expands into a valley of considerable breadth, in which
chestnut and walnut trees thrive. As you ascend, it grows narrower and
narrower; the walls of rock on each side rise in black, gigantic masses,
shadowed with dark-green, natural wood, of old pines and larches.
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