Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
Evening came on in the great, silent wilderness. Weary with my day's
fatigues, I sat down before the cabins, and contemplated the changeful
play of the clouds. Mists ascended from the ravines, and, attracted or
repelled by the mountains, rolled themselves together in the valleys,
or dispersed, and were lost among the clouds trailing slowly from above
along the hill-tops. The flocks and herds were coming in. I saw with
pleasure the long lines of the graceful black goats, and the black
sheep, to which the poor shepherds owe their subsistence. Each herdsman
drove, or drew them by a peculiar clear call, into an enclosure beside
his cabin, and there milked them. This operation is managed with
astonishing rapidity: the herdsman sits in the centre of the herd, and
catches one goat after another by the hind legs. He calls every animal
by its name; he knows each exactly. The mark of ownership is generally
on the ear. Forty head of goats, belonging to my host, yielded only a
single moderate pailful of milk.
The herds remain within the enclosure during the night. The shaggy dogs
protect them, not from the wolf, which is not found in Corsica, but from
the fox, which is remarkably bold and powerful among the hills, and
attacks the lambs. My host's Rosso and Mustaccio were two magnificent
dogs.
Meantime the eldest son had returned with a number of beautiful trouts,
and Angelo busied himself with supper. I noticed that it was always the
man who cooked, and not his wife. Was this in honour of his guest? For
the position of woman in general in Corsica is low and menial. As I was
thinking of this, it occurred to me that in Homer the men perform all
similar operations—put the meat on the spit, roast it, and bring it to
the table; so that I had living and acting before me, the man of the
epic and primitive epoch of culture. In Corsica are to be found the men
of Homer and the men of Plutarch.
We had a bread-soup, cheese and milk, and, in honour of the guest,
roasted goat's flesh. For this classic goat-herd took the flesh from the
_palo_, and, after the fashion of ancient times, stuck it on a spit,
and, kneeling, held it over the glowing fire. Carefully, from time
to time, a piece of bread was pressed upon the dripping fat, that the
precious juice of the sweet loin-pieces might not be lost. He cooked
the trouts in a broth of goat's flesh; and when they were ready, he set
them before me, and ladled me forth from the mighty ladle as much as
heart could desire. I saw it in the children's eyes, that this was no
ordinary meal; and it would have refreshed me still more admirably, had
they been allowed to share it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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