as Tom Hood called it, contained several other landmarks which have
disappeared, among them, the church on the right hand going towards
Pall Mall, and “The Bull and Mouth,” at the top south-east corner,
whence the “Age” coach, tooled by the Duke of Beaufort, used to leave
on its journey westward. Later the “Bull and Mouth” was known as “The
Spread Eagle,” established in 1820, and now it fulfils some part of its
former rôle by being converted into a railway receiving office.
Whether by day, when the flower girls sit around the base of Gilbert’s
“Cupid,” (a “cold pastoral” indeed, in his exposed situation, aiming
his arrow at the luggage on the cabs or the passengers on the omnibuses
as they pass and repass his happy hunting-ground); or by night,
as Yoshima Markino would possibly prefer, when the lamps from the
Trocadero or the Criterion are dimly perceived through a fog, or are
almost indecently glaring in a clear sky (if ever London has a clear
sky above it), Piccadilly Circus is a sight, I always think, to wonder
at. It is a perpetual eddy of many waters. If not unhasting, certainly
unresting are the passengers on those streams which flow in from so
many points and seek so many exits. Here the denizens of Soho emerge
to their farthest western limits; here the West End, in electric
broughams, comes to the outskirts of its own country. Theatre and
music-hall are here “at grips” with their opposition entertainments.
Everything comes in time to Piccadilly Circus. The man strolling out
from the play in evening dress and crush hat may be hailed by a friend
in ulster and shooting boots, whose hansom is the last stage of a
journey from the Hebrides or the Himalayas; the east and the west meet
here on common ground for that amusement which would seem to be taken
in anything but the sad spirit predicated of it by Continental nations.
[Illustration: LOWER REGENT STREET, FROM PICCADILLY CIRCUS, WITH
CARLTON HOUSE AND SCREEN. Site of “Bull and Mouth.”]
And then for the stranger there is such a pleasant commingling of the
old and the new at this point. The wilds of Soho, with its historic
Square, its streets that defy the most exact logical definition, its
church, its memories of Dr. Manette and the sweet Lucy; Leicester
Square where once was a royal palace, and the homes of Reynolds,
and Hunter, and Hogarth, and our one and only Sir Isaac; and where
the Empire, and the Alhambra (awhile the home of that most dreary
Panopticon) compete nightly with all the bravery of illumination and
gigantic “chuckers out.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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