There is an infamous custom existing at Macao, obliging Europeans, arriving or taking their departure in Chinese boats, to pay several dollars to the mandarins. Great blame is certainly attached to the imbecility of the Portuguese government, for permitting such proceedings to take place in their city, and not far distant from the house of the governors. It has been said, “if strangers will resist the demand, the governor will support them.” This is a miserable system of legislation, and can only be construed into a fear of the Chinese by the Macao government, which I really believe is the truth. Strangers arriving are beset by these pug-nosed, pig’s-eyed followers of the mandarins, and find they are absolutely forced to comply with their demands, except they choose to be bullied and severely beaten by a multitude, which has often taken place when resistance has been made to their demands. Why, if the governor has the power, does he not overthrow the chop-house into the sea, and by such active measures put a stop to the tax altogether? It is certainly disagreeable, after a long voyage, with ladies under your charge, to be bullied by these scoundrels, very probably some Portuguese soldiers and residents looking on at the same time without offering any assistance. It is not demanded of strangers at Canton: why, therefore, is it at Macao? A demand also is made separately for ladies landing; and should a refusal take place, the unfortunate Chinese boatmen are squeezed, to satisfy the cupidity of the mandarins, or the ladies insulted. Passengers and goods landing in European boats are exempt from this imposition, as well as on embarking; so that the tax is confined to Europeans embarking or arriving in Chinese boats. CHAPTER V. Leave Macao for Whampoa—Entrance to the Bocca Tigris—Country about Chuen, pee—Scene at Whampoa—Approach to Canton—The town and suburbs—The sailor’s coffee-shop—Selling by weight—Dwarf orange trees—The tea shrub—Visit to the celebrated Fa-tee gardens—Topics of conversation—Exaggeration—Rambles in the suburbs—The city-gate—Manufactories—Sandal-wood.