Gautier, Théophile, 1811-1872 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
which contains the library, and which they wish to turn into a
museum, is built in the most pure and delicious style; and although
certain ingenious restorers, who prefer bare boards to bas-reliefs,
have scraped away the admirable arabesques in a shameful manner,
there is still enough left to render the edifice a masterpiece of
elegance. We would particularly direct the attention of draughtsmen
to an internal balcony, which cuts the angle of a palace situated
on this same Plaza de san Pablo, and forms a _mirador_ of the most
original description. The outline of the small column uniting the
two arches, is peculiarly happy. According to the tradition, it
was in this house that the terrible Philip II. was born. We may
also mention the colossal fragment of an unfinished cathedral,
of granite, by Herrara, in the style of St. Peter's at Rome.
This edifice was abandoned for the Escurial, that lugubrious and
fantastic production of Charles V.'s melancholy son.
In a church that was closed, we were shown a collection of pictures
that had been made at the time the convents were suppressed, and
taken to Valladolid in obedience to an order of the superior
authorities. This collection proves those who pillaged the convents
and churches to be excellent artists and admirable connoisseurs,
for they left none but the most horrible daubs, the best of which
would not fetch fifteen francs in a broker's shop. The Museum
contains a few tolerable specimens, but nothing at all first-rate;
to make up for this defect, there is a great quantity of wood
carving, and a large number of ivory figures of our Saviour, but
they are more remarkable for their size and antiquity than for
the actual beauty of the execution. Persons who go to Spain for
the sake of purchasing curiosities will be greatly disappointed;
they will not find a single valuable weapon, a rare book or a
manuscript. Such objects are never to be met with.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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