Watching on the RhineMarkham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
History
Watching on the Rhine
Markham, Violet R. (Violet Rosa)
Cologne (Germany) -- Description and travel; Germany -- Description and travel; World War, 1914-1918 -- Germany
We complimented Herr Hollweg on his establishment and then set out
in pursuit of Herr Holbach. Our road lay through the characteristic
scenery of the Bergische Land: little villages set deep in their
orchards; rich pastures, wheat fields already turning golden under the
summer sun. Woods of beech and oak and lime covered the low hills. In
the early days of the Occupation, British troops had been quartered
in this part of the perimeter, a point about which we were left in no
doubt. The inhabitants from whom we stopped to ask the way countered my
German by a fine flow of English. Small compliments about their prowess
in this respect causes the Boche face to be wreathed in smiles. One
young woman knew all about Herr Holbach. Yes, he had a large pond with
“much fish”--a form of words of which I was growing a trifle tired.
Down the hill we went again till a large dam came into view--that
part of the story at least was true. Also there must be some earnest
expectation or hope of fish, judging by the depressing number of rods
which were dangling over the bank. We walked on to the damhead, and
there encountered a hero in charge of two rods. He had lived in America
and spoke English fluently. No, we had come to the wrong place for
trout; this was carp-fishing--witness the rods. Were there any carp? Oh
yes. Upon which he plunged down to the water’s edge and produced a net
with two large fish in it. Herr Holbach, who lived in a house across
the dam, might have some trout-fishing, but he was doubtful about this.
Our latest friend had served in the Navy, and we fell into general
conversation with him. As is usual when talking to German working-men,
I was struck by a sense of weariness and horror in all he said about
the war. Their rulers had been mad, that was his view; the war had
brought nothing but utter misery, there ought never to be another one;
they were happy and prosperous before, now they were ruined. Our talk
on the damhead was yet another proof that if the League of Nations ever
becomes a going concern, it will draw its strength, not from the upper
classes, many of whom are rooted in the ways of the old diplomacy, but
from the humble folk like our fisherman whose souls have been branded
in the furnace of war.
But the afternoon was going on, and though we had had much pleasant
conversation, the fishing still eluded us. Herr Holbach’s house, or
rather farm, stood on the bank of another lake, and there, apparently,
in addition to agriculture he turned an honest penny by letting out
boats or arranging facilities for swimming.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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